Type: | Ice, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jim Dunn, Michael Harttrich, Peter Cole, Feb 1978 |
Page Views: | 5,154 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Dec 12, 2006 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings).
Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.
When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limit chances of ripping the belay on top of pitch 1 should the pillar collapse.
Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.
When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limit chances of ripping the belay on top of pitch 1 should the pillar collapse.
Location
Route is located on the Painted Walls. The sun hits it early so the ice conditions may deteriorate fast during a sunny day. Pat McCarthy and I climbed in in March, 2005. It was warm and we were concerned pitch 2 could come down with us on it. By the time we finished the climb we were soaked. It was well worth it though.
1 Comment