This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R), which uses some climber-left variants to the Direct. It is a fun route and climbs very well (though the pro on P1-3 is runout, it's a soft .8). The first pitch goes to the first bolt then cuts left and goes into an overhang with a crack. P2 is similar to Direct and goes to a bolt & crack for belay anchor. P3 goes up and left to thin & wild section to an overhang & belay stance for 2, small gear. Be aware the last time I climbed this the belay here is a flake that was fractured, a factor 2 fall could be bad!! However, the P4 climbing grade eases (It also gets a little steeper, but it's a jugfest) to join up the Direct at the false summit. Just a great & fun route! Original photo submitted to mp.com by: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 Comment by Mark Nelson

$This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R), which uses some climber-left variants to the Direct. It is a fun route and climbs very well (though the pro on P1-3 is runout, it's a soft .8). The first pitch goes to the first bolt then cuts left and goes into an overhang with a crack. P2 is similar to Direct and goes to a bolt & crack for belay anchor. P3 goes up and left to thin & wild section to an overhang & belay stance for 2, small gear. Be aware the last time I climbed this the belay here is a flake that was fractured, a factor 2 fall could be bad!! However, the P4 climbing grade eases (It also gets a little steeper, but it's a jugfest) to join up the Direct at the false summit. Just a great & fun route! Original photo submitted to mp.com by: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 Comment by Mark Nelson$

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Percious cruising through the crux pitch. <br>
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Photo by Kateri Ahrendt.

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percious

Feb 12, 2008

“This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R), which uses some climber-left variants to the Direct. It is a fun route and climbs very well (though the pro on P1-3 is runout, it's a soft .8). The first pitch goes to the first bolt then cuts left and goes into an overhang with a crack. P2 is similar to Direct and goes to a bolt & crack for belay anchor. P3 goes up and left to thin & wild section to an overhang & belay stance for 2, small gear. Be aware the last time I climbed this the belay here is a flake that was fractured, a factor 2 fall could be bad!! However, the P4 climbing grade eases (It also gets a little steeper, but it's a jugfest) to join up the Direct at the false summit.

Just a great & fun route!

Original photo submitted to mp.com by: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

Comment by Mark Nelson”

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