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Lost Rope, Stairway to Heaven

Original Post
builttospill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

If anyone came across a yellow twin rope, a Mammut Twilight 7.5mm on the second pitch of stairway to heaven, let me know. It should have been tied off to the pine tree at the bottom of the pitch, and stuck somewhere above that (or maybe not anymore).

I left it up there in the storm on Thursday night after it got stuck. If anyone finds it, pm me or email me at fowweezer AT yahoo DOT com. I'll come up with some kind of reward for whoever pulled it off of there.....it would have been either Friday or Saturday sometime as it was gone Sunday morning.

matt tuttle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 40

How the hell did you guys get that rope to tie itself into a figure eight? Anyway, I've got it. Sty said you guys got blown off asked if I would grab it if it was still up there. email me with your number.

andrew kulmatiski · · logan, ut · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 335

Matt-
Have you been up there recently? How is the ice holding up with all this warm weather?

builttospill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Hey Matt,

Thanks, I'm sending you an email now. Not sure how it got blown around....maybe we left the knot in. Under the conditions it sure as shit would not surprise me.....dark, blowing snow, etc.

As for the conditions up there....as of Sunday morning things were good but melting in the afternoon. Methinks that the overnight temps have been low enough that that won't be a factor. Stairway was good to P5, although wet in spots.

matt tuttle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 40

Andrew,
The ice on the north facing side in provo is pretty fat, conditions right now are only making it fatter as long as it don't get to warm.
There is one exception, went up on post nasal sun, the third pitch is a huge hanging double dagger. As we found out on the second pitch anything hanging could come off with one wrong swing. So we bailed off an ice blob attached to mud about 2/3 up the third pitch on the right. Would not recommend it now. Get an early start, watch for rock fall.

Stymingersfink · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,035

no, we didn't leave the knot it... we'd already threaded that rope through the chains when pulling the rap from P3, and there was no reason to put a knot in it. Plus, the rope was straight when the pull began.

My guess is the kinks introduced during the rap, plus the high winds we were experiencing, combined to tie the knot to the end of the rope.

As I was pointing out the other day... when rapping with your device, make sure the ropes feed through and over the edge of your device in a straight line. If you twist the ropes off to the side of the device while rapping or belaying, it causes the rope to twist.

Next time you're in the market for a new device, check out the XP or the XP-Guide. The quide works better on skinny ropes with multi-pitch climbs (like ice), while the XP works pretty well for the 10.2 singles you probably use in the summer.

andrew kulmatiski · · logan, ut · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 335

Matt, builtospill - thanks for the update. I need to get out. Anyone interested?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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