Crowders Mountain is a state park located in western North Carolina. In fact, it's not too far from South Carolina. The rock is of a quartzite that is similar to the rock found around the state. Its easy approach and proximity to Charlotte make Crowders a popular place on the weekends, and not just for climbers (which leads some locals to call the place "Crowded" Mountain).
The rock quality is pretty good and offers something for everyone. There are numerous top-roping opportunities as well as sport and trad with ratings ranging from 5.5 to 5.13. Cliffs generally face east or west, so finding sun or shade is pretty easy (depending on the time of day), though the thick foliage can make finding sun more difficult.
Lambert and Shull's Selected Climbs in North Carolina is a great book for the area; however, it is not comprehensive. There is plenty to do here, however, since it's easy to top-rope quite a bit.
Keep in mind, this is a state park. Permits are required for climbing and rangers regularly visit the crags and check up on climbers. Permits are free and easy to fill out, so please do this to avoid hassles. Also, there is a gate that opens and closes daily. Please be aware of the time and make sure you leave before closing time.
Crowders Mountain is about 30 miles west of Charlotte.
Take I-85 to Exit 13 and make a left off the exit. After this, it depends on where you want to climb. Directions are different for the Hidden Wall and the rest of the areas. Please go to the respective areas to find directions to them.
'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option. (5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor i...[more]Browse More Classics in NC
Crowder's Mountain is a really interesting place to climb if you're in the area. The comment in the description that its quartzite is like that of other areas in NC is a bit off. There's really nothing in NC that quite compares. I've never climbed at Seneca WV, but the rock looks similar to these formations (on a smaller scale of course).
Crowders really has a little something for everyone. There's lots of of top-rope options. There's some moderate to difficult sport climbing. There's even a handfull of trad climbs. The low elevation makes climbing at Crowder's feasible during the winter. The main aspects of Crowder's are kind of a southeast (Hidden Wall, Practice Wall, David's Castle, and Red Wall) and west (Middle Finger, Two Pitch Wall) facing. Gumbies Wall/Fortress wall and Backside of Middle Finger sort of stay in the shade during the day.
Don't get me wrong, Crowder's is hot during the summer. However, if you hit Middle Finger or Backside of Middle Finger early in the day and then head to David's Castle or Red Wall late in the afternoon...you can chase the shade. Or do so in reverse during the winter to chase the sun.
I've set to work 'organizing' a lot of the content in this location. I'd like to give credit where credit is due and thank Eddy Ramirez for all the hard work he has put into the photo-topos, route sorting, and descriptions. In an attempt to remove duplicated areas and routes I've consolidated all of Eddy's content into the existing areas. This preserves all the existing material (in some cases consisting of entries, photos, etc. directly from the FA party). I know Eddy feels very personally invested in this crag and I also know he doesn't agree with the way I've combined the content. We've had a few phone conversations since the 're-organization' and he has requested that his submissions be removed from the database. I'm hoping he'll reconsider. I know many people have benefited from his work, and I hope they will be able to continue benefiting. Nonetheless, I strongly feel that the change was necessary. MountainProject is built on the strength of the organization of the climbing areas represented herein, and the duplicated areas were not in keeping with their established model.
Eddy, I also thought your content was excellent but I didn't enjoy having duplicated areas/routes. I like mountain project because of the level of scrutiny the site and administrators provide, unlike rc.com where the route db is a huge mess. Please reconsider keeping your excellent contributions to the consolidated areas/routes.
This place is surprisingly good. The rock is very nice: Kind of a "coral" feel and shape to it. Grippy and interesting. It seems hollow and flakey, but in the end nothing is really going to break off, and the climbing is varied and fun.
There are a lot of routes here, and it's rather pretty.