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Bad Anchors in Red Rock

Jason D. Martin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 857

-Ma and Pa in the Kettle -- Old Hangers and a funky ring bolt
-Mac and Ronnie in the Cheese -- Some Button-Head bolts and some crappy hardware store bolts with funky old hangers.

This was just a quick survey while I was working. I didn't look at everything on the west face, but I suspect that the other Swain Routes from the early nineties at Cannibal have either funky hangers or weird bolts.

The anchors seem fine.

Jason

1j1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,798

Purple Haze , Haunted Hooks, and Roto Hammer on the Stone Wall = homemade bolt hangers
at two of the anchors, as well as lower on the route
and a couple spinning bolts...

The Gambler and Glitter Gulch on the Sweet Pain Wall = spinning bolts...

cammyjams · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120
Killis Howard wrote:Which bolts/anchors on Cannibal specifically?
The anchors at the top of Caliban. Both hangers are spinning, and they're older 'hook type' TR hangers with no way to hold the rope in place in a severe bounce/slack scenario. Moderately spooky.
you guys rock, C.
cammyjams · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

Solar Slab Gully could use some major love. For being part of a major trade route this is a scary place.

In a perfect world, 'someone' would re bolt this entire rap system to avoid the gully climb altogether and get people off of the upper slab quickly without the Johnny Vegas stuck rope scenario. Of course in a perfect world I'd get paid to climb 5.6 all day with buxom hotties, so there ya go. :-)

I'm willing to help/donate.

mikewhite · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 55

Can I help out?
Driving down to LV to work on friday.
I will be around for a month or two.

mike white
asca

1j1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,798

The initial bolt on "The Threat," in Willow Springs is miserable! Homemade, rusty, and spinning. . . Made for an exciting lead though! Great climb too!

jed botsford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 5

The third bolt up on Red Sky Rising at the Holiday Wall is missing the hanger.

David Sampson · · Tempe AZ, · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,207

I too am willing to help out. But, it first seems that a more organized approach is warranted.

Specifically, rather than a bunch of posted comments, perhaps we can use an on-line document like a google docs spreadsheet. In that way folks could add to a (growing) list and, in the end, a viable document is created and available.

my 20 pesos.

DA

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

I Think Dave's idea is fabulous.

Use google doc's to document bad bolts.
-because it/ g-docs, has versioning as well.
The calendar could used for volunteer events etc.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

I have a huge list of bad bolts in Red Rocks, mostly 1/4" back in the canyons (The Threat is on the list, but at least the bolts are 3/8" even if they're old and rusty with bad hangers). The key with any rebolting is to prioritize which bolts need work. Thus a bad bolt on a sport route in the Gallery is far more important than bad bolts on for instance Coltrane, an obscure Urioste route with a 3 hour approach hike.

Larry and others with the LVCLC - let me know if you need more mussy hooks and/or bolts for sport work. I have more that I painted tan/red in Bishop that I didn't send down, and I can prep and paint more as needed.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Hey Killis, AVM, Larry, and CLC anchor folks -

I'm heading down to Vegas on Monday. Need any more camo Mussy hooks, bolts, hangers, etc?

My elbow has been hurting so I'm not even bringing my rebolt kit (so I won't be tempted), but I can easily bring anchor supplies and drop it off somewhere (eg. DRS).

Greg

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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