Ellingwood Peak. Notch Pinnacle is on the left and separated from Ellingwood by a snow couloir. The North Ridge (III 5.6) follows the arete that rises straight to the summit from the base of this snow couloir. The Southwest Ridge (descent route) follows the right hand skyline.

All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Titcomb Basin Area > Ellingwood Peak > N Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Ellingwood Peak. Notch Pinnacle is on the left and separated from Ellingwood by a snow couloir. The North Ridge (III 5.6) follows the arete that rises straight to the summit from the base of this snow couloir. The Southwest Ridge (descent route) follows the right hand skyline.

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Original bolt found on the second pitch.

Cruising up the Ellingwood north ridge.

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4.8 from 6 votes

Joe Stern

Dec 11, 2007

“Ellingwood Peak. Notch Pinnacle is on the left and separated from Ellingwood by a snow couloir. The North Ridge (III 5.6) follows the arete that rises straight to the summit from the base of this snow couloir. The Southwest Ridge (descent route) follows the right hand skyline.”

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Nearby Photos

Morning on the North Ridge.

A broader view of Ellingwood Peak.

The red line is scrambling. The green is roped climbing. We used the fish-shaped snow patch (blue marker) and the two small snow patches (pink marker) as a guide for where to start. We started just above and right of the two small patches. The fish-shaped one was visible during the whole approach, which really helped.

Original bolt found on the second pitch.

Ellingwood Peak. Notch Pinnacle is on the left and separated from Ellingwood by a snow couloir. The North Ridge (III 5.6) follows the arete that rises straight to the summit from the base of this snow couloir. The Southwest Ridge (descent route) follows the right hand skyline.

Cruising up the Ellingwood north ridge.

Moody Ellingwood, showing the southwest ridge descent route in its entirety.

Mary Erdei climbing near the top of the N Ridge in August 1985

The red line shows our route up the mountain. We were definitely on the right track, and it felt good for the grade. The blue line marks a gully/crack to the left of where we ascended (the gully/crack is not the blue line, but the visible crack just right of the blue line). It could likely also be used as the start, and meets our route about 250-300ft up. We rapped that gully, and it looked 5.6ish.

Emily Isaacs on the upper middle half of Ellingwood Arete. Beautiful sustained 5.6 climbing

Fuzzy following on the final summit pitch.

Emily Isaacs on the lower portion of the Ellingwood Arete.

From the nice ledge @ p8 belay
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Too fun for words... completely worth the hike!

Just below the big ledge ~90% up. There might have been an easier way up nearby, but not as aesthetic. It's as clean as it looks and is very fun. In difficulty and angle it reminded me of a layback variation of p1 Direct E Face 5.6 on the First Flatiron.

somewhere half-way up the route, riding the main arete

One of many possible starts of the route. I stayed left of the snowpatch

Fuzzy leading up the 6th pitch. One of the best on the route.

The approach gully to lake 10800 as seen from the trail along Island Lake

Stan Misch belaying high on the route where the arete blends into the upper headwall. August 13, 1977.

The North Arete (aka the North Ridge) has to be one of the most fun routes on the planet. The route follows the largest arete at the shadow/sun border to the left of center. We counted at least 15 pitches of lots of 5.6 (60m rope).

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