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The bolt on the right is a 3/8" by 4" Rawl expansion bolt. It is the 2nd lead bolt on "Black's Crack" at Fire Crag. The first bolt on that route (also a 3/8" Rawl) recently pulled out during a lead fall. This was the second lead bolt failure at the crag in recent years. For comparison, on the left is a 1/2" Powers expansion bolt. <br /> <br />Bolt failures like the one on "Black's Crack" are actually predictable. Test data compiled by Duane Raleigh and printed in Climbing Magazine in 1992 reveals that these bolts have little holding power in soft rock like that at Fire Crags. In this case, the real-world result is even scarier than the data. The first bolt, which failed, was located 13 feet above the ground. The second bolt is located just 36-inches above the first bolt. The fall that resulted in the failure of the first bolt was therefore of a very low fall factor.
This is an externally-threaded sleeve bolt at Fire Crag with a Fixe Sport Climbing Anchor attached to it. It is the ONLY anchor bolt that protects an easy climb on one side of the crag. Apparently people are clipping a rope through the hook and using the bolt as the sole protection for this route.
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With only moderate resistance, the bolt withdrew farther and farther from the hole.  Eventually, the bolt withdrew enough that the expansion clip at the bottom of the bolt slipped over the end of the expansion cone and the bolt slid out of the hole.
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With only moderate resistance, the bolt withdrew farther and farther from the hole. Eventually, the bolt withdrew enough that the expansion clip at the bottom of the bolt slipped over the end of the expansion cone and the bolt slid out of the hole.

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 29, 2007
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