zion guidebook?
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Hey, I'm headed off to Zion and the surrounding area in a month. Is there a good guide available. We figure on hitting a wall (moonlight, touchstone, or something) and then free climbing routes up to the 5.10 level. I've got the free topos to some of the walls, but is there some comprehensive book to throw in the car? Thanks |
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There isn't a good definitive guide for Zion. The following books have sections referring to Zion with probably Stewart Green's Climbing Utah Guide the best of a bunch for a visiting climber since it covers areas around St George, etc as well. |
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There is also the new guide by Sharpend books |
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Thanks, that definitely points me in the right direction. |
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The folks at the shop, Zion Rock & Mountain Guides just on the left, as you enter Springdale, can give you a lot of good beta. The new guide, currently being written, is on geologic time. |
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That's also a good place to grab a shower as well. |
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The Desert Rock-Climbs in the NP'S is basically worthless. I was in Zion for a week in the end of october and had less then plesant experiences with the topo's. The approach and descent beta are good, but that's about all. Zion Rock and Mtn. Guides has a couple of three-ring binders with topos in them. These are a good resource. We ended up there a couple of times after realizing that our guide was bunk. |
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bsmoot wrote:The folks at the shop, Zion Rock & Mountain Guides just on the left, as you enter Springdale, can give you a lot of good beta. The new guide, currently being written, is on geologic time.I bought an apparently very basic topo/guidebook in this shop, I think, a couple weeks ago for 25% off.. all of their climbing gear was 25% off. I'd definitely stop in there if you get this message before you head out. Bring cam hooks on moonlight, but use them judiciously! --Marc |
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Egads! Please don't use camhooks on Moonlight (or any other trade route in Zion). Moonlight has bomber placements the entire way. Bring Metolius 0 and 00 TCU's (or equivalent) for the thin stuff. |
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Monomaniac wrote:Egads! Please don't use camhooks on Moonlight (or any other trade route in Zion) Marc Horan wrote:Bring cam hooks on moonlight, but use them judiciously!There is at least one section on moonlight that would be impossible to aid through (and virtually impossible to free with aid rack on) for short people, without the use of a camhook (or a cheater stick). The cam hook can be used judiciously there without damaging the rock. --Marc |
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Please use a cheater stick and NOT cam hooks! |
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My 135#/5'3" self stood on 3 different cam hook placements on Moonlight Buttress two weeks ago without damaging the rock. It can be done; judiciousness is the key. |
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Absolutely do not use cam hooks on Zion trade routes, especially free routes. Cam hooks are not clean aid on desert sandstone. |
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Do not use cam hooks on Zion trade routes...the rock is super soft & hooks will damage the rock...anyone who says otherwise is plain wrong...& you do not need hooks or a cheater stick on Moonlight...I'm assuming the spot in question is on pitch 2 where you move around the roof...it's an easy 5.9 move to a bomber cam placement...suck it up!!! |
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JamesW wrote:I'm assuming the spot in question is on pitch 2 where you move around the roofYour assumption is wrong. I did not even lead the second pitch. JamesW wrote:anyone who says otherwise is plain wrongI'm not a liar. I don't appreciate being called one either. --Marc |
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Joe Collins wrote:Absolutely do not use cam hooks on Zion trade routes, especially free routes. Cam hooks are not clean aid on desert sandstone.Absolutely do not come into a forum and presume to tell other climbers what style/ethic to climb in. --Marc |
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Marc, I know and have climbed with both you and Joe. You're both good guys and would like each other. I don't think anyone here is trying to call anyone else a liar or trying to start fights. |
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Josh, Marc Horan wrote:My 135#/5'3" self stood of 3 different cam hook placements...without damaging the rock JamesW wrote:hooks will damage the [Zion trade route]...anyone who says otherwise is plain wrongI truly am all for inspiring the cleanest ascents possible, especially on sandstone. My original comment was: Marc Horan wrote:Bring cam hooks..but use them judiciously!If those two guys had come in and said any one of the following: "Cam hooks are unnecessary for even an all-aid ascent of Moonlight Buttress." "Cam hooks should only be used as a last resort." Or even: "I urge you to leave your camhooks on the ground for your ascent of Moonlight." ..I can assure you that I would not have disagreed with anything like those statements. But I do have a problem with someone implying that I'm lying. I cannot come up with any other intention behind that particular part of JamesW's post (as quote above). Thank you for giving me an opportunity for clarify that, Josh. --Marc |
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Marc, |
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Geeze Louise...this is silly, I'm signing off. |