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The 3rd pitch start.
p.10
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p.4
Id# 106063113, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 16, 2013

I believe this is not the correct pitch. If you belay from the bolts at top of pitch three you need to actually move right to start pitch four. If you go to the crack this picture shows you head into comeback corner, but eventually you can go right on the varnish face to get back onto route at p6. We followed this beta doing the variation.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 16, 2013

It is the correct pitch. You're not meant to belay at those bolts- they shouldnt even be there. The belay is up and right from where the bolts are, but the pitch traverses up and left into that crack, and then you head back right to gain the beautiful varnished crack above. The trick is to not go too high in this crack.

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 16, 2013

I could be wrong but looking at the guidebook and at the picture of larry (page 86) on the sixth pitch his belayer is off to climbers right more. And from the topo in guidebook if you see the picture below the red circle is what the picture here is of. We ended up climbing to the red circle, belaying at green and then traversing back to the yellow circle to climb p6.

hotflash
hotflash

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 18, 2013

You climb up and right at the top of the red circle. Larry would have gone where the pro is, and that's where the pro is. Left, then right. Jerry's topo is slightly off.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 18, 2013

So if you look at Larry's photo-topo posted here on MP, you will see that you did it the same way he suggests.

The guidebook disagrees with a member of the FA party who usually documents things pretty carefully ... I think I'd put the guidebook aside on this one!

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 18, 2013

Okay cool just wanted to clarify route was lots of fun. I hate to have done a different variation.

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p.4

Submitted By: brucelacroix on Nov 15, 2007
On this route:
Hot Flash (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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