Best 12a for me in the Red?
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I've been hitting up the Red River Gorge a bunch this semester and have onsighted quite a few harder 11s. I've tried some stuff at The Motherlode and Bob Marley, but the style there is way different (not in a bad way!) than what I'm used to. I like working on those routes, but they're not good onsight candidates. |
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manifest destiny at the solarium. massive gimme. one move out a roof (on jugs) right after a lay-down rest. great climb, but really (5.11b/c) soft. |
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Ro Shampo is the obvious best choice for an onsight 12a, it is generally considered soft, it is bouldery, it has a sequence that makes it easier and beta that can help (but that would ruin the onsight). It is probably more like 11d but it is very classic and will leave you pumped. Just keep climbing and don't stop to try to rest, all the holds are good enough to keep going.
Another choice could be Gung Ho, it is super classic and a pump fest! It has a couple of decent rests but the crux is up high and will make you work for the tick, nevermind the onsight. Also try Sex Farm (12a) at Left Flank it is classic as well (although by far more asethetically pleasing than the other two), and has a great rest just before the crux traverse moves. Good Luck! |
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I cannot climb at that grade, but have seen my partners send these climbs (not all 12a, but quality routes from what I hear and see): |
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Ro Shampo... but that's because it is not really 12a. |
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try 'wild yet tasty' at left flank. It competes with ro shampo for the softest 12a in the red. Pretty casual climbing to an obvious crux (hard v3 or easy v4) followed by more casual climbing. Good luck! |
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Ro is .11d, so is Chris Snyder |
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If you've got the 2nd edition of Ellington's guide, he has a list of 12s for those looking to break into the grade. The list is at the back of the section on Roadside, where Ro Shampo is located, and starts with that climb. |
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oh, did he put it back as .12a in the new guide? |
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Ben Strohmeier wrote:oh, did he put it back as .12a in the new guide?Yes, althought I think most folks see it as a classic 5.11d |
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Take a look at Left Flank... |
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Too Many Puppies is one of the sweetest routes I've ever been on! |