Mountain Project Logo

Best 12a for me in the Red?

Original Post
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

I've been hitting up the Red River Gorge a bunch this semester and have onsighted quite a few harder 11s. I've tried some stuff at The Motherlode and Bob Marley, but the style there is way different (not in a bad way!) than what I'm used to. I like working on those routes, but they're not good onsight candidates.
Anyway, just curious as to what folks' opinions are. The likely candidate would be bouldery, sequential, and not too sustained (if it's steep, with good rests). Ideas?

Eddie Avallone · · Lewisburg, WV · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 100

manifest destiny at the solarium. massive gimme. one move out a roof (on jugs) right after a lay-down rest. great climb, but really (5.11b/c) soft.

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
Ro Shampo is the obvious best choice for an onsight 12a, it is generally considered soft, it is bouldery, it has a sequence that makes it easier and beta that can help (but that would ruin the onsight). It is probably more like 11d but it is very classic and will leave you pumped. Just keep climbing and don't stop to try to rest, all the holds are good enough to keep going.

Another choice could be Gung Ho, it is super classic and a pump fest! It has a couple of decent rests but the crux is up high and will make you work for the tick, nevermind the onsight.

Also try Sex Farm (12a) at Left Flank it is classic as well (although by far more asethetically pleasing than the other two), and has a great rest just before the crux traverse moves.

Good Luck!
Jim Matt · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 255

I cannot climb at that grade, but have seen my partners send these climbs (not all 12a, but quality routes from what I hear and see):

The Return of Chris Snyder

Too Many Puppies

Prime Directive

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Ro Shampo... but that's because it is not really 12a.
If you want bouldery with good rests, then consider High Noon, Straight Edge, or Flying Monkeys. I'd say Hardcore Jollies too, but that may also be soft at the grade.

Jamie G-Child · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 370

try 'wild yet tasty' at left flank. It competes with ro shampo for the softest 12a in the red. Pretty casual climbing to an obvious crux (hard v3 or easy v4) followed by more casual climbing. Good luck!

Ben Strohmeier · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 25

Ro is .11d, so is Chris Snyder

Crack the Whip is a short bouldery one at the Playground, and a contender for softy if you're tall. Jersey Connection is a good bouldery .12b

sgauss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 15

If you've got the 2nd edition of Ellington's guide, he has a list of 12s for those looking to break into the grade. The list is at the back of the section on Roadside, where Ro Shampo is located, and starts with that climb.

Ben Strohmeier · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 25

oh, did he put it back as .12a in the new guide?

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
Ben Strohmeier wrote:oh, did he put it back as .12a in the new guide?
Yes, althought I think most folks see it as a classic 5.11d
JamesW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 285

Take a look at Left Flank...

Too Many Puppies - .12a
Infectious - .12b
Sex Farm - .12b
Mercy the Huff - .12b/c
Wild Yet Tasty - .12a

Also some easier & some harder, Some of the easier climbs are not very inspiring but I think that everything there .12a and up is stellar!!!

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Too Many Puppies is one of the sweetest routes I've ever been on!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "Best 12a for me in the Red?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started