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East Face Right/Red Devil
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 2.6 from 19
votes
Routes in Red Devil
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Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Friend of the Devil TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hell in a Bucket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Paradise Lost S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super-spreader S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,607 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on May 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
A significant roof bars easy access to the East Face of Red Devil (Berserker goes through the left side of this roof). This route begins at the far right side of this roof. Hike up the fern filled gully between Red Devil and Unicorn (the rock to the right of Red Devil). This soon turns to a slab right where the overhang runs out.
P1: Step/chimney onto the slab and head up and left. You may find a piece or two early on, but I found the first 40' or so to be rather unprotected. The rock here is quite red, clean and generally excellent. Occasional odd, knobby cracks give excellent protection, but the upper part of this pitch also involves runouts of 30' or more. It is about 65m to a pair of small pine trees (the route here merges with the upper part of Berserker). Belay here or rig a belay lower in one of the knobby cracks.
P2: Continue up an easier face with more lichen and several more trees. A large ledge will soon be reached. You can belay here or continue on up to the top (from the pair of small trees, it's about 50m to the top). There is [now a 2 bolt anchor on the south side of the summit from Hell Freezes Over.]
Walk off to the west.
P1: Step/chimney onto the slab and head up and left. You may find a piece or two early on, but I found the first 40' or so to be rather unprotected. The rock here is quite red, clean and generally excellent. Occasional odd, knobby cracks give excellent protection, but the upper part of this pitch also involves runouts of 30' or more. It is about 65m to a pair of small pine trees (the route here merges with the upper part of Berserker). Belay here or rig a belay lower in one of the knobby cracks.
P2: Continue up an easier face with more lichen and several more trees. A large ledge will soon be reached. You can belay here or continue on up to the top (from the pair of small trees, it's about 50m to the top). There is [now a 2 bolt anchor on the south side of the summit from Hell Freezes Over.]
Walk off to the west.
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