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climb suggests for first timers--gunks

Original Post
Spiro Spiro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 110

I want to bring my brother up to the gunks for his first climb.

What i need is:

Easy jug climbing
exposure
good belay ledge (multipitch preferable)

Give it to me.

Any new followers you input would be helpful as well.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Over twenty years ago I did Strictly From Nowhere as my first Gunks route. I was with my girlfriend of the time and it was raining. It seemed like a good first time route for The Gunks

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Spiro wrote:What i need is: Easy jug climbing
Easy for you, or for your brother? What's your lead level?

If you really want to blow your brother away with a fun and exciting climb, do Gelsa in the Nears. Maybe the coolest 5.4 in America!

In the Trapps, Jackie is a nice 5.5 with good exposure; not a difficult lead and plenty easy for a beginner following. Easy O (5.2) and Minty (5.3) are other good possibilities.

JL
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Gelsa is a great climb, as well as Disneyland in the Nears. I would also echo that Jackie is a great climb, and by all means, do the easy second pitch; it is very fun, easy and good for some exposure. I would also reccommend doing Frogland in the Trapps. Enjoy!

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505

Strickly from Nowhere is my suggestion, 1st pitch isn't classic but the 2nd is amazing!

Spiro Spiro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 110

I lead 5.7, he hasnt climbed at all...so I need to keep it simple. Minty is the one I picked out. Any beta on this climb? Is there a good belay station?

Isnt strictly from nowhere a 5.7? I cant do that to him. I want him to have fun and come back!!!!!!!!!!

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
Strickly is a 5.7 but the 5.7 move is using a undercling and then grabbing huge jugs, the rest of the climb is 5.4ish.

If your brother is reasonably athletic then he shouldn't have a problem.
Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Betty's a real cool 5.3, near the beginning of the trail. If you follow the book, it has you go right for the 2nd pitch. Going to left has a much smooth sequence, and more exposure.

Strictly has a scary last move on the first pitch (more of a concern to you than your brother.) You'd want to protect that well as "flipping back" is very possible through there.

High E (5.6) is jugular, but the 2nd pitch has a relatively tense move (for beginners) out of that ceiling. Also, you can't see the belayer (climber) for much of the climb, so it may be a bad idea for a first time.

Wrist (5.6) has an awesome first pitch. It has an off-width too, which makes it interesting. However, it's not extremely difficult. Second pitch has a big ceiling, and is relatively exposed after you get past that.

Dennis (5.5), and Belly Roll (5.4), (I think I have those ratings right) are real smooth, have good climbing, and near the top may have a bit of exposure.

Bill Hutchins · · Bethesda, MD · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

For someone's very first rock climb, some of the above suggestions seem a bit steep to me. But, Minty is a great climb. Easy climbing with good, big holds, and lots of exposure. Good belay ledge. Three Pines and Tipsy Trees would also work well. My favorite easy climb at the Gunks is Beginner's Delight, but it has a traverse that exposes a first time climber to a long swing if he/she falls.

Hope your brother has fun and gets the "bug."

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
Ladd Raine wrote:Strickly is a 5.7 but the 5.7 move is using a undercling and then grabbing huge jugs, the rest of the climb is 5.4ish. If your brother is reasonably athletic then he shouldn't have a problem.
I don't know about this. Strictly's felt all of 5.7 to me. It's just awkward enough in the corner to force you to use your arms too much. This makes the relatively easier upper section quite difficult. I think this shouldn't be underestimated at it's grade, though it's certainly classic.
Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

Minty is a good one to bring him on. Good belay ledges and good exposure. Gelsa (5.4) and Andrew (5.4) are also good. Easy Overhang (5.2) is also exciting for its grade. These guys are seriously sand-bagging you suggesting 5.7s. If he hasn't climbed at all then you want to stay at 5.4 or below.

Brian

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

I think Horsemen might be doable if he's athletic.

AGH · · Jackson, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 60

Gelsa gets my vote. I led my mostly-non-climbing brother up it this spring and he had a blast. Good belays and the 3rd pitch is hyper-classic and super-exposed -- the wildest 5.4 I've been on yet.

Spiro Spiro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 110
Aaron Hubbell wrote:Gelsa gets my vote. I led my mostly-non-climbing brother up it this spring and he had a blast. Good belays and the 3rd pitch is hyper-classic and super-exposed -- the wildest 5.4 I've been on yet.
I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good!
saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Spiro wrote: I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good!
Gelsa is in the Near Trapps; your guidebook is probably for the Trapps, you won't find it there. Click these links and you can see the route description and pictures.

If you're going to be climbing in the Trapps, a visit to the Nears is definitely worthwhile, if only to climb Gelsa.

JL
Coz Teplitz · · Watertown, MA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 215

Gelsa's definitely worth the trip. Other favorites of mine include Sixish (5.4 despite the name) and Arch P1 into Wrist P2 - fun 5.4 first pitch, great belay on the GT Ledge, and a *wild* but fun and relatively easy 5.5-5.6 second pitch.

It's easy to get someone hooked at the Gunks...

AGH · · Jackson, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 60
Spiro wrote: I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good!
If you have the cash buy the Todd Swain guide. He has cliff-base topos showing things like trees, boulders, rock colors, and walking times from 44/55 to the base of various routes -- it's pretty much idiot proof. The guide covers the Trapps, Nears, and other areas as well like Millbrook.

I would just get you lost if I tried to explain it...
Matt Amory · · Boulder CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0
Gunks.com has lots of great information not available on this site.
Here's my 2 cents:
Gelsa is awesome, an easy lead and an easy walkoff.
3 Pines is awesome and an easy rap to find at the top of P2 or from the top.
Northern Pillar is an easier lead and ends up right at a bolted rap.

Enjoy!
Matt Amory
Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Try High Corner!

Spiro Spiro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 110
Aaron Hubbell wrote: If you have the cash buy the Todd Swain guide. He has cliff-base topos showing things like trees, boulders, rock colors, and walking times from 44/55 to the base of various routes -- it's pretty much idiot proof. The guide covers the Trapps, Nears, and other areas as well like Millbrook. I would just get you lost if I tried to explain it...
That makes sense, i have the Dick Williams which is all trapps....I will have to pick up the other book. It looks like a nice climb.
Tabo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 20

Williams is working on a new guide for the Nears, I heard next spring as the release date. So it might not make sense to buy a Swain guide at this point, might be better just to head to the Trapps.

The Swain has much less detail, which some people like but can be more difficult for beginners, especially those who are used to the grey williams.

Minty, Three Pines, Andrew, all great suggestions.

Cheers!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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