climb suggests for first timers--gunks
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I want to bring my brother up to the gunks for his first climb. |
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Over twenty years ago I did Strictly From Nowhere as my first Gunks route. I was with my girlfriend of the time and it was raining. It seemed like a good first time route for The Gunks |
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Spiro wrote:What i need is: Easy jug climbingEasy for you, or for your brother? What's your lead level? If you really want to blow your brother away with a fun and exciting climb, do Gelsa in the Nears. Maybe the coolest 5.4 in America! In the Trapps, Jackie is a nice 5.5 with good exposure; not a difficult lead and plenty easy for a beginner following. Easy O (5.2) and Minty (5.3) are other good possibilities. JL |
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Gelsa is a great climb, as well as Disneyland in the Nears. I would also echo that Jackie is a great climb, and by all means, do the easy second pitch; it is very fun, easy and good for some exposure. I would also reccommend doing Frogland in the Trapps. Enjoy! |
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Strickly from Nowhere is my suggestion, 1st pitch isn't classic but the 2nd is amazing! |
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I lead 5.7, he hasnt climbed at all...so I need to keep it simple. Minty is the one I picked out. Any beta on this climb? Is there a good belay station? |
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Strickly is a 5.7 but the 5.7 move is using a undercling and then grabbing huge jugs, the rest of the climb is 5.4ish.
If your brother is reasonably athletic then he shouldn't have a problem. |
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Betty's a real cool 5.3, near the beginning of the trail. If you follow the book, it has you go right for the 2nd pitch. Going to left has a much smooth sequence, and more exposure. |
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For someone's very first rock climb, some of the above suggestions seem a bit steep to me. But, Minty is a great climb. Easy climbing with good, big holds, and lots of exposure. Good belay ledge. Three Pines and Tipsy Trees would also work well. My favorite easy climb at the Gunks is Beginner's Delight, but it has a traverse that exposes a first time climber to a long swing if he/she falls. |
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Ladd Raine wrote:Strickly is a 5.7 but the 5.7 move is using a undercling and then grabbing huge jugs, the rest of the climb is 5.4ish. If your brother is reasonably athletic then he shouldn't have a problem.I don't know about this. Strictly's felt all of 5.7 to me. It's just awkward enough in the corner to force you to use your arms too much. This makes the relatively easier upper section quite difficult. I think this shouldn't be underestimated at it's grade, though it's certainly classic. |
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Minty is a good one to bring him on. Good belay ledges and good exposure. Gelsa (5.4) and Andrew (5.4) are also good. Easy Overhang (5.2) is also exciting for its grade. These guys are seriously sand-bagging you suggesting 5.7s. If he hasn't climbed at all then you want to stay at 5.4 or below. |
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I think Horsemen might be doable if he's athletic. |
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Gelsa gets my vote. I led my mostly-non-climbing brother up it this spring and he had a blast. Good belays and the 3rd pitch is hyper-classic and super-exposed -- the wildest 5.4 I've been on yet. |
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Aaron Hubbell wrote:Gelsa gets my vote. I led my mostly-non-climbing brother up it this spring and he had a blast. Good belays and the 3rd pitch is hyper-classic and super-exposed -- the wildest 5.4 I've been on yet.I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good! |
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Spiro wrote: I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good!Gelsa is in the Near Trapps; your guidebook is probably for the Trapps, you won't find it there. Click these links and you can see the route description and pictures. If you're going to be climbing in the Trapps, a visit to the Nears is definitely worthwhile, if only to climb Gelsa. JL |
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Gelsa's definitely worth the trip. Other favorites of mine include Sixish (5.4 despite the name) and Arch P1 into Wrist P2 - fun 5.4 first pitch, great belay on the GT Ledge, and a *wild* but fun and relatively easy 5.5-5.6 second pitch. |
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Spiro wrote: I looked in my book for that and could not find it...it isnt here on the database either...where is this climb, it sounds good!If you have the cash buy the Todd Swain guide. He has cliff-base topos showing things like trees, boulders, rock colors, and walking times from 44/55 to the base of various routes -- it's pretty much idiot proof. The guide covers the Trapps, Nears, and other areas as well like Millbrook. I would just get you lost if I tried to explain it... |
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Gunks.com has lots of great information not available on this site.
Here's my 2 cents: Gelsa is awesome, an easy lead and an easy walkoff. 3 Pines is awesome and an easy rap to find at the top of P2 or from the top. Northern Pillar is an easier lead and ends up right at a bolted rap. Enjoy! Matt Amory |
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Try High Corner! |
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Aaron Hubbell wrote: If you have the cash buy the Todd Swain guide. He has cliff-base topos showing things like trees, boulders, rock colors, and walking times from 44/55 to the base of various routes -- it's pretty much idiot proof. The guide covers the Trapps, Nears, and other areas as well like Millbrook. I would just get you lost if I tried to explain it...That makes sense, i have the Dick Williams which is all trapps....I will have to pick up the other book. It looks like a nice climb. |
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Williams is working on a new guide for the Nears, I heard next spring as the release date. So it might not make sense to buy a Swain guide at this point, might be better just to head to the Trapps. |