|Original:||Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Will S on Oct 24, 2007|
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By Jonathan Williams
Jul 13, 2009
|This is the second half of an established problem, "The Rebirthing Canal," V3.|
By brian warshow
Mar 8, 2012
o.k. then. If this is reference to the camp 4 problem which was originally called "The Rebirthing". I need to settle the score. We established the problem looooooong before 2007. It starts at one side of Two MASSIVE boulders and horizontally offwidths for a long way until you exit to a wicked stemming problem and cranks out to a hand jam and up over the lip. I have personally heard that it is now called a classic- much to my amusement. Some links now talk about females' bra sizes and their ability to get through the squeeze...how awesome that boobs are inculded in the beta!!. A close friend has recently told me that it is, indeed, "on the circuit". What a shock as we figured it was merely a parlor trick, but hey how cool is that.
I'll spit it out now... We did this in 1989, years before the 2007 "first ascent". If this is the same problem, which given some photos, it appears to be, the first ascent info is incorrect.
Here's the beta: Walk around the back and cram your body horizontally through the gap for maybe 30' and exit into an overhanging corner, stem/grovel upward for maybe 4' vertical ft. and get the jam, grovel over the lip. go directly to the Deli and, for good style, Do Bill"Swillis" Russel's classic Deli Head Jam, pour as much ol' e in your gullet as possible and continue until you make a complete ass of yourself in public. Repeat as necessary.
The first idiots to make it fly were, in order and as a team: Brian Warshow (The Russian Peasant), Andres Zeegers (Chilli Dog- from Chile) and Brian Kay (the Coiler) circa 1989. This was confirmed by non-other than Dick Cilly (Master Beta) and the rest of the freaks with whom we worked with on YOSAR.
I am a world class slouch and a "shit climber" by my own standards but we were inspired by Walt Shipley, Tucker Tech and Old E 800 to " do something proud.So we did. If i remember correctly... Andreas actually got upside-down to get his BURLY chest through the squeeze. So ladies,under a bra size of DD... no excuses.
Like I said, I am shocked that a "stupid" problem from a couple of wasted kooks has been even recognized. More for Brian Kay and Andreas Zeegers than myself... credit is due. Respect goes out to them to inspire the world to do something dumb for the fun of it.
I would be psyched to hear peoples response to our idiocy. Cheers Y'all... do something dumb for the fun factor!! PEEEECE!
By brian warshow
Mar 8, 2012
|I forgot something. We graded it Yosemite 5.10. that was the original grade for the total problem from start to finish. It stands as that, boulder grades be damned. As for the photo... We did not get upside down but stemmed like fiends and that is NOT "the second half of the original problem. that is the normal finish. I dunno about V3/4 but I'm pretty sure V3/4 is harder than 5.10. We did not grade it 5.10+... just plain 'ol 5.10. Boulder pads were not even on the scene yet. I surely don't mean to be a dick or anything... just sayin'. Comments SURELY welcome!!|