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Modifying your Gri-Gri

Original Post
Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505

There are quite a few ways to modify a Gri-Gri but the one I am talking about can be used for a solo belay, such as in a rope soloing instance or a solo-aid instance. I know that this is done by folks with a grinder and a hack saw and involves taking off the smooth part for lowering and part of the feeding portion, but I can't find a picture of it.

Anyone have one, or have a picture?

-Ladd

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

Modifying a piece of mechanical hardware away for manufacturer's specs is foolish, and I don't recommend it. The most intelligent thing to do, IMO, would be to contact Petzl and get their advice on the matter.

KC

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
Ken Cangi wrote:Modifying a piece of mechanical hardware away for manufacturer's specs is foolish, and I don't recommend it.
I have had one of these modified Gri-Gris and I kow for a fact it still holds a falls and works just fine for solo TRing. I also know (albeit secondhand) that it can hold a 75+ft aid fall.

Yes, I agree that modifying hardware can be a dangerous thing to do, especially if you don't know what you are doing. I am only looking for a picture of a modified one to compare it to my old one.

I will contact Petzl, but I figure they will stone wall me with a blanket statement that runs something like 'Petzl does no, and does not condone the modification of...'

-Ladd Raine
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Ladd,

I agree with your evaluation of Petzl's response.

ulrichprinz.de/alpin/equipm…

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

Quote from Gri-Gri to Soloist Modification article:

"If you don't understand something here, then you should probably not consider this modification. Modifying gear voids the warranty and, according to the UCC, releases the manufacturer from liability. You could wind up dying a miserable, gruesome death due to your own fallibility."

I don't doubt that modifications can be made under specific conditions, and the author's final sentence corroborates my concern, which was the point that I was trying to make. Now at least less experienced climbers, reading this thread, will be aware of that important caveat.

KC

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

It's pretty common sense that modifying the gear in this way will void a manufacturer's liability (which is very little in the first place).

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

I wasn't talking about voiding the manufacturer's warranty. That would be the least of someone's problems if the gear failed.

And I didn't say that you wrote all that. I said that is was quoted from Nathanial Beckwith's article.

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Niether was I... I was talking about liability.

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

Glad we cleared that up, and Ladd got his information. Isn't life great?

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

A lot of people soloing with Grigri's now don't modify them.

I use a silent partner. It works very well.

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160

I did mine like the picture shows in Jared Ogden's Big Wall book. It is no big deal, doesn't affect the integrity, and simply keeps the gri gri oriented upwards. It is great, and a dream to use and fall on.

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
Ladd Raine wrote: I am only looking for a picture of a modified one to compare it to my old one. -Ladd Raine
Still looking for a modified picture if anyone has one.

John, I used to keep mine tied up with a light chest harness to make sure it kept its vertical orientation.
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Ladd, there are picutres on the website I included earlier...

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
James M Schroeder wrote:Ladd, there are picutres on the website I included earlier...
Alright, sorry about that, I can't access the page you've linked from work, I'll take a look when I get home, thanks!

-Ladd
skiclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 30

I have used it, and have taken serious air on it. Works great, yeah the manufacturer does not recommend it but they are covering there ass in this wonderful country where we can blame everyone else for our actions.

I don't claim to know more than petzl does, and I hope the more holier than thou than me guy in this thread doesn't start dropping F-bombs and attacking me again for trying to help out with a productive opinion and contribution to your question.

I still tie catastrophe knots every so often about twenty feet or so out and just untie the knot as it comes up to the device. before I untie the knot I pull up another 20 feet or so and tie the next one. Takes some time, but it gives me a warm fuzzy to know there is some back up because the bottom line and is a mis conception amongst climbers, is that the Gri Gri is not a hands free device and there are ways the cam lever can jam itself open when not attended to.

If you do it just assume the risk and liability of your own actions. The gri gri does not provide a dynamic belay, it is quite static. If you have some cash, the silent partner really can't be beat.

logan johnson · · West Copper, Co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 315

For free climbing you cannot beat the Silent Partner. A modified Gri-Gri is excellent for aid, but is still a pain to feed while free climbing on lead (plus I hate chest harnesses.)
For back up knots I pre-stack several on individual biners clipped into my belay loop. This allows faster leading, but can be a cluster on less than vertical terrain.

Jesse Zacher · · Grand Junction, Co · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,205

I wanted to rig my Gri GRi so that I could aid solo with it but also still use it for being a top rope hero. It seems that the way I have done it works fine with both. The danger of course is the handle getting caught on something allowing it to open. I usually put a piece of tape over the lever. I use a small enough cord that I dont have to have a big intrusive hole and so that if needed the cord could break to orient my body in case of a massive fall. I have heard of people using light bungee and of Velcro. The side that I have my stopper not is different then other ways on purpose because the way that I have it allows the gri gri to align up and down better.
pics:
i91.photobucket.com/albums/…
i91.photobucket.com/albums/…
i91.photobucket.com/albums/…

I dont advocate this as fail safe, but it has worked for me.
-jesse

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

I found a Soloist used for $50. Less trouble than modifying the Gri Gri.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

Ladd,

I have done a lot of rope soloing over the years, both free and aid. The modified gri-gri is probably the best method I have used. I think the silent partner totally blows, and the soloist is a hundred times worse. I used the same modification from Nate Beckwith's website (not sure if it is around any more). I use a chest harness to keep it upright, and I also use a big steel biner with a wad of rubberbands to keep the grigri from sliding down the spine of the biner and cross loading. One of the best things about the grigri is its versatility. you can use it to solo, belay, haul, jug, etc.

I have one piece of advice that I REALLY hope you will take. Tie back up knots. I know numerous people that have taken lead falls, both tiny and gargantuan, and had the gri-gri work fine. However, I also have a close friend who was injured pretty bad in a big ground fall when the grigri didn't lock up. This person had already taken several falls and it had worked fine, but on the last fall it didn't.

Good luck and take it slowly.

Matt TeNgaio · · Idaho Falls, ID · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 180

Can an ascender be used as as TR solo device if the end of the rope is anchored to something at the base to keep the rope taut?

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690
Matt TeNgaio wrote:Can an ascender be used as as TR solo device if the end of the rope is anchored to something at the base to keep the rope taut?
I wouldn't. Best to use a mini traxion and tie backup knots.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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