Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 12,349 total · 56/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This one is great. Requires no crack technique despite the name. Super enduro- in your face til the end.

Sequential climbing right off the ground. If you are tall it is easier to reach the starting hold with the correct hand. Fun long pulls on mostly good pockets leads up to a shouldery move to the left getting into the bottom of the flake. Some good sidepulls and a pocket out left lead up the flake to a couple of slopier holds and a honking jug at the top and a great rest. From here the climbing gets somewhat sequential and progerssively more difficult as you move up into a shallow right facing corner on pockets and sidepulls. A sidepull pinch on a cobble up high allows one to reach up left out of the corner onto the huge embedded cobble, but there is only a good edge on top. Then its just a couple of more moves up and right on mostly jugs to the anchors.

Location Suggest change

5th route from the left, has a crack/layback type feature midway up.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to chains. The fourth bolt has a permadraw on it to facilitate cleaning (the leader clips her/his rope into the permadraw on the way down while cleaning) and negates the swing into the trees behind.

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