Hi Zach, see here, here, here, here, here, and here (think I'm running out of "here"'s ? :)). Or check out this great picture featured in Climbing. This issue, keeps coming back like a vampire. I would like to caution that debating this self-imposed rule should be kept entirely within the climbing community.
Chalk or no chalk, hot-button issue for sure. Kind of along the lines of the ground-up only, or top-down new route debate. These 'debates' mostly raise a lot of anxiety and emotions but almost never change climbers' opinions or practices. Climbers do what they're gonna do. And getting in someone's face about 'NO CHALK!!!' does no good at all, whether it be on this forum or in the parking lot.
Climbing, like most activities, has evolved, and not always in ways that we'd like it to. But the reality is that many climbers who visit Palisade Head and Shovel Point use chalk, and 99% of the other park users couldn't care less. Furthermore, the fact that all the other state parks in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, and South Dakota allow climbers to use chalk, will continually serve to undermine a no-chalk ethic.
It comes down to agreeing to disagree. A public shouting match will serve no useful purpose.
Not much to add here beyond Dave Rone's comments. It is important that this argument stay within in the climbing community. Getting the park involved or trying to dictate park policy for one's own ends would jeopardize access.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI May 27, 2010
Kris did you use sticky-rubber shoes and spring-loaded-camming-devices too?
BTW I think that's about the least amount of chalk I've ever seen on a route. Nice job FFAing that.