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Sean Dunlop
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Aug 22, 2007
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 70
So Im heading up to devils tower this weekend and soler looks like a phenomenal route. I hear there are quite a bit of fingers on the route. True? How are the sections, long, strenous. I hate fingers, I guess its because I haven't had that much experience with them so my confidence is low. Let me know what you've experienced.
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JamesW
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Aug 22, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 285
I think I climbed this route several years ago...it was great, in fact all the climbing on the tower is great. Have fun.
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Rob Dillon
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Aug 22, 2007
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Tamarisk Clearing
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 775
Flaring, in my recollection, and way polished. I'd have been psyched for some locker fingers. Should give you a run for your money.
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Tom Hanson
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Aug 22, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 950
Hi Sean, It has been some years, but if I recall correctly, it is mostly hands and a lot of the moves are standard layback, not straight-in jams. I am not too fond of fingers either, but don't recall a lot of fingers on Soler I would also suggest El Cracko Diablo (easier) and Belle Fouche Buttress (harder)
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Bill Duncan
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Aug 22, 2007
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Glade Park, CO
· Joined Mar 2005
· Points: 3,410
Tom remembers the same thing that I do. Lots of laybacking. I don't recall it feeling much like a finger crack. I'm not the best at fingers either, but I enjoyed Soler. Good feet. When in doubt, throw a layback . . .
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Tara
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Aug 22, 2007
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 15
Hey Sean. This info was posted on Supertopo...thought you might like to know about the closures before you get there this weekend. Weekly Issues Report Intermountain Region August 21, 2007
Devils Tower Climbing Routes Closed due to potential falling rocks On the evening of August 19th the southeast face of the Tower at Devils Tower National Monument was struck by lightning. The climbing route known as El Cracko Diablo received some damage. Beginning immediately, the National Park Service (NPS) is closing several climbing routes along the southeast and east faces of Devils Tower until the stability of the rock has been determined. Any travel around or above these routes is prohibited, including the use of the Exit Us Rappels. The areas to be closed include all pitches of climbing routes between and including �Solar Eclipse� and �Troglodytes Trauma� on the southeast and east face (routes #40 to 50 in climbing guide book) and �Exit Us Rappels.� Climbers may ask at the climber registration office or visitor center to see a list of all closed routes. NPS professionals with assistance from the United States Geological Survey (USGS) Geological Hazards Team will survey the Tower to determine the potential hazards of falling rock due to the lightning strike. The Geological Hazards Team assisted the park in 2005 with evaluation of the leaning column on the south side of the Tower. Separate from this closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on the climbing closures please contact the monument�s acting chief of resource management, Taryn Flesjer, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212.
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Terry Parker
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Aug 22, 2007
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 0
Hi Sean, I did Soler in mid-July. Let me start that you can put in a piece of protection every 12 inches - but that will pump you out. There are some finger - but it is mainly hands and you always can put a foot in the crack. I am a comfortable 5.8 leader and only stick my neck out when I can zipper it up on harder stuff. I wound up putting cams in and when they were at my feet just bent over and put it higher. Did most of the climb on a top rope. The description says the crux is the bulge - but I found the crux getting into the crack after the 30 feet of slab. The 2nd pitch is much shorter and only has about 40 feet of hand crack and then goes to manky rock. The climb is sustained and since I am not that graceful on rock I felt worked. 2nd pitch is steeper - but the short duration made it feel easier. Any hanging belay is uncomfortable - and that is true for the bolts at the end of pitch one.
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montanaclimber
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Oct 24, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 0
I used to get down to the Tower quite regularly from Montana and remember Soler being a nice climb. Have fun!
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