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Crestone Peak / North Pillar
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British R
Avg: 2.4 from 19
votes
Routes in The Crestones
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'Bag O Stones' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crestone Peak / North Pillar T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Crestone Peak North Buttress T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Crestone Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Ellingwood Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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India T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Merhar Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI4 M5-6 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Ridge of Kit Carson T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Northwest Couloir T |
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Prow (Kit Carson), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Red Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Septem Virtutum Anima Mea T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | Warren Banks and Brad Shilling, both of Pueblo, c1986. |
| Page Views: | 11,527 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Bauck on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route ascends the northern pillar on the NE face of Crestone Peak. Basically you climb the east face near the edge between the east and north faces. Protecting this climb can be tricky - expecially on the crux 7th pitch.
The specifics: Climb on the east face for approximately 6 pitches of up to 5.7 (with a 60m rope, you may be able to cut this down to 4 pitches). For the crux pitch, ascend from a ledge up and to the left to climb a small overhang (poor pro). Then do a rising traverse to the right (back to the edge). 2 or 3 more easier pitches will take you to the top of the pillar. From here follow the North Buttress route to the summit of Crestone Peak.
Keep in mind that the knobs which makes this climb good are sometimes loose/brittle (we broke off two!), so a fall could happen at any time. This route would be 2 or 3 stars if it wasn't for the occasionally bad knob and somewhat runout climbing.
The specifics: Climb on the east face for approximately 6 pitches of up to 5.7 (with a 60m rope, you may be able to cut this down to 4 pitches). For the crux pitch, ascend from a ledge up and to the left to climb a small overhang (poor pro). Then do a rising traverse to the right (back to the edge). 2 or 3 more easier pitches will take you to the top of the pillar. From here follow the North Buttress route to the summit of Crestone Peak.
Keep in mind that the knobs which makes this climb good are sometimes loose/brittle (we broke off two!), so a fall could happen at any time. This route would be 2 or 3 stars if it wasn't for the occasionally bad knob and somewhat runout climbing.
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