Front Range Benchmarks

How right you are Bob. Foolish me. By the way I have been loving your photography! Please keep it coming.

I'm not a hard climber by any means, but I've done a decent # of climbs in the 5.4-5.7 range. I don't think Verschneidung should be counted as a "benchmark" 5.7. It's probably the hardest route of the grade we've ever been on. I would consider Center Left on Cobb Rock in BC more in the middle-to-higher-end part of the grade, or Cajun Capers on Sundance Buttress. A soft 7 would be White Whale or any 7 or 8 at the Ironclads.
As far as 5.6, I think I enjoyed Icarus (Redgarden) and Extra Point (3rd Flatiron) more than anything, and they exemplify the grade.
5.5 - Swanson's Arete (Lumpe, Eldo) fits perfectly between the cilmbs mentioned above and below.
5.4- The Bomb (Wind Tower, Eldo) is what 5.4 should be. Barely technical, but will still give any newbie the "pucker-factor". Anything below that let's just call 5.2....

ps- of course, Icarus and Swanson's assume getting up to the Red Ledge, making them 5.7.... unless you like the West Chimney..... :)

theREALangry wrote: However, here's the photographic evidence that Horns Mother can't be all that hard. Cause well, you know, I like being alive and stuff

Luis Barandiaran wrote:I'm not a hard climber by any means, but I've done a decent # of climbs in the 5.4-5.7 range. I don't think Verschneidung should be counted as a "benchmark" 5.7.

Why do off-width cracks think they are so great. Oh I'm so much harder than regular grading, I'm an off-width crack and require so much advanced technique.

I'll kill any off-width I see so watch out because I'm tired of those self absorbed bastards. (in response to Voo and Splatt).

Try mother #1 and you will see what it is like to be humbled on a 5.7. maybe benchmark if you dial the technique.

I guess for me it was just a lack of OW crack. I wonder if it would still be hard for me? The Voo and the Platte will deffinately show you the weaknesses in your crack technique.

Benchmarks should realy only be suggested by experienced people who regularly climb in that area who can fairly compare that route to others in the same difficulty level. Some areas are notoriously stiffer, but once you dial the technique I think it's on (unless it's really just a sandbagged route).

I don't feel too qualified yet, not enough routes under my belt I guess (atleast at one place). It seems it's pretty hard to compare one area to another unless they require similar technique.

I haven't ever climbed verschneidung but I wonder how is it compared to other 5.7's in eldo like bastile and mesca-line I bet it's easier then LJW and Rewritten?

hey Jim, take it easy, the cracks I named are completely comparable to fingers to hands of Verschneidung, none of them are OW technique, except Mother #1. They all take pro, I don't think I offered a sandbagging, just a fair opinion of comparable cracks.

Luis - if it read like I'm a dickhead, that wasn't my intent here, just offering some other climbs you might find comparable to get that sustained .7 crack climb. There all good to try.

I know what you meant, no big deal.... I've been to V-woo and been spanked on some climbs out there. I'm just looking at the term "bench mark". Here's a definition I found online: "Something that serves as a standard by which others may be measured or judged". A V-woo or Splat climb might be a good benchmark for other local climbs, but if addressing the whole front-range then it's probably best to find a climb in the "meaty" part of the sampling. I, myself, would tend to weigh it more towards the upper end of the scale, but not necessarily to the hardest areas (re: sandbagged). Either way... get out there and have fun!

I always consider the first pitch of the Bastille 5.8 and Touch and Go 5.9- isn't that what they were in the old Boulder Climbs South or am I crazy?

If there's some dispute, how can those climb be benchmarks?

Excellent point, Craig. You have to gauge the subtle difference between "benchmark", and "benchmark, nudge, nudge, wink, wink", i.e. "sandbag".

Seriously, the difficulty of pitch 1 of Bastille Crack depends on the level where you do the traverse left (from the flake into the crack), so it makes sense some find it harder than others. In fact on many climbs it is possible to miss the easy sequence or giant hold and struggle at something within your ability.

I think that when considering a "benchmark" climb, one should consider the type of climb, i.e., the technique involved; Face climbs, slabs, OWs, etc. Unless you are equally gifted in all styles of climbing, saying somthing is a benchmark 5.whatever is kind of meaningless.

It's nice to see Vedauwoo get mentioned so often by folks. While now living in Montana I have many fond memories from my days in Laramie when I would regularly climb there. In fact, to this day it still might be my favorite place to climb.