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PA's Variation
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13 |
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Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Pat Ament & pals, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 1,627 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
An independent pitch with independent good climbing, perhaps this is referred to as a variation because it was used as an alternate finishing pitch to Pseudo Sidetrack.
From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of Archer McLanahan to the left (5.8+?).
Descend via the descent as for 'The Bulge' or via East Slabs if finishing on Archer McLanahan.
From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of Archer McLanahan to the left (5.8+?).
Descend via the descent as for 'The Bulge' or via East Slabs if finishing on Archer McLanahan.
Location
This climb starts in the big left-facing dihedral down and right from Archer McLanahan. This is up and left from the big, twisted, gnarled juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, after 2 pitches of Pseudo Sidetrack, or after finishing the pitch above C'est La Vie, Continue-Us, or C'est La Fin.
Protection
A standard light rack with a few long slings. The best part of the climb is a hands to thin hands crack in a solid corner, but there is a funky start with lesser gear (5.7?) and a steep finish on face holds (5.7 to 5.8, S) that was once protected by an ancient bolt and round aluminum hanger... I didn't bother clipping it, placing a few small nuts instead and climbing more directly. Comments below state that the bolt has been replaced, but the pitch is still runout.
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