I usually have my feet switched for this move. I have the inside edge of my left shoe out on that left sloper edge and then the outside edge of my right shoe firmly pushed into the dime edge underneath and slightly left of me. This also minimizes the barndoor effect. I will have to try it this way some time as well and see if it makes the move easier...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Mar 5, 2011
I put my left foot on the little crescent edge out left (where Steve's left foot is). Then I make one quick, dynamic movement with my right hand to the good edge waaay up there. I kick my right foot back behind me, like a back flag, to keep balance while going for the crimp. I love that move.
Yes, the dramatic barndoor effect makes this move pretty fun and adds to the difficulty. I got really sick of the desperate move above this out to the really fuggin' good horizontal ledge but never tired of pulling this move.
It is a hard body tension move for sure.... First off... ya need to be strong enough to pull that not so great 2-3 finger side pull towards the top of that little rock arch up and right of the good horizontals. After that just get right foot high onto that great horizontal then press up with right leg.... left hand pulling square cut (but not undercut) undercling. Set swinging left foot onto other great but not quite visable horizontal. Find the balance point.... let go of left hand and slowly reach up to very small but positive crimper just at arms length. Let go of the right hand side pull (which is easier to hold onto now that you are up higher and more lateral to it and the added little extra thumb catch) reach over to the other small but positive crimper nearby.. steady... let go of left hand and stab left for the nice positive ledge/edge.... get it.... steady.... bring the feet over slowly.... mantle up..... rest.. Ahhh! get ready to pull that last set of devious moves.
I don't remember it as vividly as Burt does but after 2 tries keeping my right hand on the undercling arch out right, I searched a bit harder for something better for the left hand and there was an additional 2 finger undercling that I used somehow to my advantage. I believe I crossed my right foot up and over then found a decent left foot edge and bared down on a intermediate crimp for my right then brought my left hand out of the undercling/crimp and went up willy nilly for the ledge. It was certainly not elegant and irritated me to no end.
Way too many repeat efforts on TR on Acid Rock over the way too many years have burned those moves into my memory.... My memory is OK on that but the muscle power and flexibilty needed is often times not!