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One Finger Solution
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 14
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Adaptation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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ALF T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Direction S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Russell’s Big Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,022 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Boner on Feb 15, 2003 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This is the hardest route on the North Canyon Wall. It follows the bolted face to the right of "Blockhead". The first bolt is at the very bottom, about chest-height from the ground, and is there just as much for the belayer as the climber to prevent both from tumbling down to the bottom of the canyon in the event of a fall before clipping the next-higher bolt. The first part involves using probably one of the most uncomfortable finger-pockets i've ever encountered, and once past that it really doesn't let up. The climb also includes a cool middle-finger/thumb pinch hold into a pair of small pockets a little more than 1/2 way up, smack in the middle of the face. It's a fun climb, but liable to give you some headachs...
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