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Best heinous grovel-fests at Devil's Lake?

Original Post
Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

I was reading the Michael's Project thread and I started thinking about all of the "less than elegant" routes at DL. Here are my nominations:

Kamikazee-The angry older brother of Michael's Project

Via Apia--knee jams at the top.

First pitch of Wiessner Wall--sure it feels easy if you do it perfectly, but if you don't...

First pitch of Turks Head Ridge--yeah its only twenty feet long, but it feels like fifty, and don't forget about the dirt and the moss.

Chez's Chimney--too many features, not enough holds.

Rob Riggleman · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 960

The Funnel - The awkward, slick, steep crack that you have to thug through to get to Bucket Brigade and the other fun easy climbs above.

I also agree w/ the first part of Turks Head Ridge...that dirty inside corner is awful.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Speaking of "The Funnel". I led through it this weekend past wanting to get on "Bucket Brigade". Speaking of "Bucket Brigade"...
I did not go near it but decided to finish up the fun right hand variation (slab/face/crack/arete/broken rock) thing just left and around the corner of the top section of "Happy Hunting Grounds". The reason for no go on "Bucket Brigade"??? Right now (maybe all the time?)it is a wet, slimey, smelly, and pigeon crap smeared gross out....... I think maybe more then "less than elegant".... And "The Funnel"? No surprise! That was cold, wet and slippery, and dirty as ever as well.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

I can't believe I for got about the Funnel. It sure deserves mention at the top of the list.

Terry Kieck · · Baraboo · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 170

Here are a few other obscure routes that I recall thinking to myself, "I never need to do that again"

R.C. at West Post - the top out was a grovel
The Hangman - Hangman tower
Flying Fish - February wall
Squirm - Juniper wall
Charlotte's Web - Waterfall wall

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

How about moderately hard but maybe not so heinous grovel-fests (maybe even fun grovel-fests)?

"The Munge" up by "Horse Rampart"? Sharp, awkward, and steep but super well protected. Spider webbed up because doesn't get much traffic.

"The Green Slime" up on "West Bluff" below "Turk's"? All of the above plus throw in a smattering of fuzzy moss to boot.

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

How about Caternary on a 90 degree 85 percent humidity August day.

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

On further review I guess any route at the Lake qualifies under those circumstances...

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Oh ya!

And how about that "Jack the Ripper" to the right of "Caternary". Equally slimey and thrutchfestive but a bit harder. The name says it all. The back of the right hand takes the brunt if I remember correctly?

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056
Terry Kieck wrote:Here are a few other obscure routes that I recall thinking to myself, "I never need to do that again" R.C. at West Post - the top out was a grovel The Hangman - Hangman tower Flying Fish - February wall Squirm - Juniper wall Charlotte's Web - Waterfall wall
Terry,

I think you are the only one to have climbed those routes in at least a decade.
Terry Kieck · · Baraboo · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 170

Jay,
I do know someone else who has climbed RC but you may be right on the other routes.

What about 'Whipping Boy' near 'The Good, the Bad and the Jacked' on a hot day?

I have watch a few people climb 'Breakfast of Champions' and it looked like such a grovel-fest I've never gotten on it.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

The one and only time I did Breakfast of Champions, three pidgeons exploded out of the big chimney to the right. I almost soiled myself and then I fell.

Eddie Avallone · · Lewisburg, WV · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 100

Whoa there,

Every aspect of Breakfast of Champions is fantastic. It isn't super-slick like the Whipping Boys and also one of the best crack climbs at DL.

Heinous grovel-fests? That sure sounds like every climb at DL at one point or another.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220
mountainproject.com/v/wisco…

Check out the pic of this dude on "BoC". He looks like he is having way too much fun to be climbing some henious grovelfest???
Jerry W · · Rapid City, SD · Joined May 2006 · Points: 95

Gotta agree with Eddie on BOC. Fun, well protected steep crack with good movement. Rare sort of climb for DL.

Pigeon Roof -- definitely heinous (for the smell).
Tibia Crack -- dirty and awkward.

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

By the way, the pigeon incident was very funny.....

Ian Schmit · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 35

Tibia Crack definitely. I didn't think the top of Via Apia was all that bad. With even minimal OW technique it goes pretty easily. Chez's Chimney too. I remember at one point straddling one of those large protruding flakes and thinking, "man, this blows."

The right hand start to American Dream Roof comes to mind too. Pretty thrutchy for me when I lead it.

I'm with everyone who loves BOC though, awesome climb. All of the 5.8
given by the Swartling Guide.

Peter Arndt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 790

I would nominate "Ptooey" 5.8 (yeah right!?) @ Sandstone for the Best Heinous Grovel Fest Award.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,056

Ah man, I forgot about Ptooey. Maybe I blocked it out. I don't think I'll ever be able to send that.

Terry Kieck · · Baraboo · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 170

Maybe the people I watched trying to climb B.O.C. really sucked .........I don't know. I guess I'll have to get on it!

Leo Hski · · Basalt CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 220

Just about everything on the West Bluffs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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