estes park - sundance buttress

Hey all,
I'm taking my annual out west climbing trip and wanted to hop on Mainliner. I was wondering what the hike time is up to the route, any tid bits of info for the hike, car to trial info, the descent and anything on the climb I should know about. I appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Rhett Burroughs

Well, depending on when you get there (I think they're moving the parking lot in May?) - the walk from the old parking lot is probably a little over an hour (for a slow person like me) and the walk from the new one would be about 2 hours (I've done this walk - it's not that bad because the additional hiking is over fairly flat ground). The trail is very easy to find (there is a sign marking the turnoff for the trail to Sundance down below the buttress - at least there was one the last few years) and so is the route. Nothing that I can remember too tricky about route finding... The descent is fairly straightforward - however I have done it several times - one rappel and then a walkoff from there (down and to the northeast) - doesn't take too long. Have fun - I love Sundance Buttress and sigh - I miss it......

Also, note that the thunderstorms roll in like clock work around noon. I always like to get an alpine start and seem to top out just as the lightning strikes. Whee.

The second pitch is a meander-fest, good place for long runners and careful route-finding. RPs are useful for the third pitch. I've always scrambled the whole descent. Once again, keep your eyes open. If it's over fourth class, you're off route. Great climb; have fun with it!

did it last spring and the approach is striaght forward. i thought the route had more of an alpine feel, get some jams here and there, traverse right then left, up and the rigt again on blocky, stuff then pull on some flakes, you know, that type of feel. i think it was pitch three that was the exception and you best get this one if you know whats good for you. although its the crux pitch, two sections of 9, it flowed really nice and is well protected. the steming section was a blast. there are two ways to finish the climb. at the top of the 4th ptich, begining of 5th pitch you can either traverse right on easy ground to the saddle or go left and top out on sundance. if you decide to top out, you descend by walking north until you encounter a blocky ourcrop, look to your right (east) and down, you will see a ponderosa with slings. one rap then a short scramble to the gully. the trail that takes you out of the gully is well defined. have fun and enjoy lumpy.

danie

It takes about an hour to get to Mainliner. It is approximately 1 1/4 miles west from the existing parking lot which was there last week. At the little keyosk at the west side of the parking lot take the lower trail. Keep going until you reach the Sundance sign (one mile) head up hill about 1/4 mile. Just before reaching the cliff the trail will take you over a gigantic log. continue up and left towards the cliff. Up a gap onto a winding trail through small talus will land you onto a large flat dirt platform at the base of the climb. Looking up you can either do the 5.8 immediately to your left (crack then right turn onto ramp) or an easy 5.10 directly up from the middle of the large platform. At the end of the first pitch you will see a short traverse to the right and a horn with multiple slings, that's the belay. Second Pitch: Traverse back left onto the fat stance. I always head up left from here (path of least resistance 5.8) until I can get some pro in (runny) then head up right. When you look up you see and be shooting for a box slotted chimney. Belay on the platform before this chimney (Fat). Climb the crack into the box chimney. I climb onto a good stance on the right side in the chimney. Then I place a Lowe Ball into the crack on the left side of the chimney
(again warm and fuzzy, an rp would probably work, but the lowe ball is the bomb and takes any fear out of this) I have always climbed off the right chimney platform up left, over the lowe ball, onto a large platform. Gear is tricky at belay. Pitch 4: Climb up the crack directly above the box chimney through a wide short sorta over handing bulge. I always take my blue Camelot for this pitch. It fits great into the wide area of the bulge and gives me that warm fuzzy feeling that a short fat boy needs. On top of the bulge you get a great stance and can plug various bomber small cams etcetera. (one of the best pitches anywhere). Continue climbing the crack through the open book exiting right onto a super fat ledge.(I have heard that pitch 3 & 4 can be linked). You can either belay there or continue on until you reach a little platform (60'?)which is a relaxing comfortable belay spot/hole. Above this bath sized hole is easy 5.5 to 5.7 climbing. Last Pitch effort: From the belay climb up and stay to the right. Focusing to the right about 3/4 rope length you should be able to pull right onto a very flat ledge (top of climb) I always walk over about thirty feet and set up a belay off the small trees) Decent: From the tree belay head east (away from the climb) keeping pretty much at the same level. When you run out of ground you will see a gap that descends left and down. You can either Rappel or downclimb this section. This will take you onto a trial that ends up going around The Nose/Idiot wind climbs, then up and under the gigantic rock against the cliff. continue along the base to the starting platform.

I have done this climb at least five times.

The parking lot Charlie Perry is talking about will be closed Memorial Day and the new Lumpy Parking lot will be located about .5 miles east of the current parking lot. Thus adding this time to the current approach. The walk is still well worth it, though you'll need to get an early start to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms.

I appreciate it guys & gals.

Thanks!

Early start to avoid the storms? Ha hahahha ha, what about avoiding the CROWDS? In all seriousness, an early start (like sun-up) is highly advised. I did a few routes on Sundance lately and watched the conga line on Mainliner start at ~ 8am, while I was alone on Slim Pickens, Storm Watch, etc... which nobody seems to ever be on.