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Rock Climbing Photo: (Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the mov...
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 4, 2015
Jason...someone needs to learn how to clip their draws correctly. The end clipped to the bolt hanger needs to face away from the direct the leader is climbing and in the current orientation can interact negatively with the gate, while the rope end is oriented with the gate pressing against the rock, another bad practice.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2015
Hey Benjamin...I know how to clip draws and what textbook clips look like. In my 17 years of clipping bolts, I've never once seen the negative impacts of draw clipped "not optimally" so I go with personal preference most of the time and only really pay attention to it when I think it really matters.

I also wear a helmet when I want which isn't all the time.

But thanks for the concern.
By jonathan hemlock
Feb 29, 2016
...and despite that, the draws are clipped "correctly" anyway. Just looks like it's not because it has rotated up over the bolt hanger from the tension of bringing up the second.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 29, 2016
Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 27, 2016
Nice double rope threading - I mean it; one doesn't see a lot of this in the US. Even if an extra rope is required for rappel almost all US climbers just clip the extra rope onto their haul loop, or worse; onto the harness gear rack.

So this is good to see.
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Avg Score   5.0 from 6 votes
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(Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the moves through the crux on the second pitch. Great crack through a smooth, beautiful face. April 7, 2007.

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 10, 2007
On this route:
Inti Watana (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b )
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