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Moore's Wall

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Moore's Wall  


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Location: 36.3979, -80.2917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 254,503
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Moore's Wall from the fields below.

Description 

Located just a short drive from Winston-Salem, Moore's Wall is the premier climbing destination of piedmont North Carolina. With its beautiful quartzite rock and juggy overhanging lines, Moore's more than holds its own with other great NC areas like Looking Glass and Linville Gorge.

There are several different sectors at Moore's, all with a different feel and aspect. While most of the walls face north, there are a few areas that do get bathed in the beautiful North Carolina sun as it sets over Sauratown and Pilot Mountain in the distance. With the exception of the coldest winter months, you can find a comfortable place to climb year round.

Moore's Wall is the home of some of the earliest climbing in North Carolina; its first recorded ascent went up in 1959. Carolina pioneers like George DeWolfe put up numerous first ascents through the 1960s. The 70s saw development at a higher level as climbing gear improved; Bob Rotert and others established routes like Air Raid and Wild Kingdom, among the hardest routes in the state at the time. Tom Howard was another prolific FA artist, with routes like the classic Zoo View to his credit. And climbers owe a debt of gratitude to local legend Tim Fisher, not only for his numerous first ascents, but his efforts at maintaining climber access to the cliff.

Like most NC destinations, Moore's is primarily a trad area. One distinguishing feature of climbing here is the adventurous nature of the descents; don't look for convenient bolted rap stations at the topouts of most routes. A typical rap station consists of fixed pro, slung trees or chocks, or a combination of these. And just finding the rap stations can be a real easter egg hunt, involving scrambling and downclimbing. Be prepared!

As part of Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall is subject to park regulations, including climber registration (free). Camping is available in the park. There is also a campground in close proximity to the climber parking lot on Moore's Spring Road (bring earplugs).

Getting There 

From Winston-Salem, take US 52 north for about 13 miles to exit 122 (Moore-RJR Drive). Follow this road east for about four miles to NC 66 and turn left (north). Continue on 66 for almost seven miles to Moore's Spring Road (SR 1001). Turn right on Moore's Spring and continue a short distance to another right turn on Mickey Road. Follow this almost a mile to Charlie Young Road and turn right. After a short distance, you'll come to a parking lot and trailhead kiosk for the Tory's Den trail.

Continue up Charlie Young Road past the Tory's Den parking, then go right onto Hooker Farm Road for less than a half mile; turn right at the handy brown "Climbers Access" sign onto another dirt road and continue a short distance to a gravel parking lot on the left. In addition to a registration kiosk, this new climber's parking lot sports a unisex bathroom and a water pump for last-minute fills of the water bottle.

The approach from the climber parking lot is fairly aerobic, gaining about 500' of elevation in a 20-minute hike. Follow the trail past the kiosk for about 10 minutes until you reach a gravel power line road, and turn left. From here there are several trails that take you to the different sectors. See specific areas for detailed directions to each sector.

Camping 

Moore's Spring Campground has sites for $10.
Hanging Rock State Park offers sites for $20 that include shower facilities.

Access Issues 

Sections of Moore's Wall are subject to closure for nesting peregrine falcons. This is set seasonally; for more details, check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site and see the notices at the registration kiosk.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

132 Total Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',64],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',5],['5.8',12],['5.9',9],['5.10',23],['5.11',22],['5.12',23],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moore's Wall:
Stickman   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Sentinel Buttress Boulderfi...
Sentinel Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress
Wailing Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Amphitheater
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Amphitheater
Zoo View   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall
Air Show   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall
Nutsweat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   North End
Break On Through   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall
Do or Dive   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Amphitheater
Blue Chock   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Central Wall
Bimbo's Bulge   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall
Quaker State   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Amphitheater
Vascular Disaster   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   North End
Mighty Mouse   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   North End
Wild Kingdom   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Fire Wall
Underdog   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Fire Wall
The Hurt Locker   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 60'   Last Wall
Middle Road   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   North End
Double Dare   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Hanging Garden
Season in Hell   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Hanging Garden
Browse More Classics in Moore's Wall

Featured Route For Moore's Wall
Seth Tart shaking out on Double Dare!! C.Huffine  ...

Double Dare 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden
At 4th bolt of Pygmalion follow the bolt line out left into the steep intimidating bulge with incredible holds. Then hold on through the thin face to get a much needed shake. Fire the roof sequence above and set up for one last push to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Moore's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
   The shift from one season, to the next,... is o...
The shift from one season, to the next,... is o...
Sentinel Buttress and Central Wall area. Zoom in!
Sentinel Buttress and Central Wall area. Zoom in!
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
Sauratown and (faintly) Pilot Mountain can be seen...
Sauratown and (faintly) Pilot Mountain can be seen...
View of the amphitheater area as seen from the cle...
View of the amphitheater area as seen from the cle...
The awesome "Indian Head" feature that l...
The awesome "Indian Head" feature that l...
View of Sentinel Buttress, Washboard area. Climber...
View of Sentinel Buttress, Washboard area. Climber...
dragon
dragon

Comments on Moore's Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 9, 2007
For organizational purposes, Moore's Wall should be broken up into separate areas on this website (ie. Amphitheater, Circus Wall, etc.) like a guidebook would have routes listed.
By Sarah Wolfe
From: Durham, NC
Sep 3, 2011
I'd love to see Aloof Roof (5.8R) added to Mtn Prjct Moore's Wall page. It's a great climb that starts very similarly to Super Direct, then runs up the face, around the arete from Breaking Rocks 5.9 start.

There's also an alternate 5.8 start to Breaking Rocks, off to the left of the regular start.

And Dromedary (5.8) would be another one to add. It's a little dirty/rough but has its interesting moments.

Aloof Roof and Dromedary are letter climbs in the NC guidebook. When I get to Moore's next time, I'll take a pic and post it for Aloof Roof. Dromedary is a bit harder to capture in photos.

A Piedmont guidebook is coming soon. Not sure, but perhaps it will be divided into separate areas. Be on the lookout from cragmama.com and Earthbound Sports (Bill Webster).
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Nov 3, 2011
It was a lengthy process, but I've divided Moore's up into sectors. I might divide some of the sectors up into smaller, "sub-sectors" like the three different areas of the North End, and upper and lower tiers for the Hanging Garden. Still working on descriptions and L to R sorting...

@ Sarah - Please go ahead and add those routes. If you have climbed them, you are the best one to add them. They don't need pics, but it's nice.

@ EVERYONE - I haven't done some of the rap descents in years... particularly on the Central Wall. I'm going to add descent info to each section and I'd love for you guys to PM me w/ descriptions of descent options that you are familiar with... for all sectors please.

Also, if you have a picture that you feel shows a certain area of Moore's well, please submit it to that section and I'll use it as the feature image.

Thanks.
By CurtisB
From: Moran, Wyoming
Dec 18, 2012
Does anyone know about bouldering in the Moore's Wall area? I've heard it referred to as 2 Mile, and I've done some stuff near Stigmata and the trailside boulders and the Eurowall. I've heard there's a lot more, and I was hoping to get a topo or directions to climbing areas with known grades. Thanks.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Dec 19, 2012
To get to the boulder field near SB, follow the approach trail. On the second leg of the trail towards SB, you'll see a "boulders ->" sign about 300-400 yards from the main wall, if that far. I haven't been to any of the other bouldering at or near Moore's- this is the only that I know of exactly, although I know that much more exists.
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 21, 2012
If you want the best resource for bouldering at Moore's, get this new guide... mooreswallnc.com/

Incredibly done and packed with history and quality beta!