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Routes in Third Buttress
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Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kangaroof T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | R. & B. Briggs, C. Reveley, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 3,020 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall
Details
Apparently, the closure has been lifted.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Description
This is a fun and exciting route with great crux moves through the roof. The gear is reasonable for the crux as well, and the fall would be clean. Take a lot (at least 5) of 2-foot runners to protect this climb, as the tiered roofs of the Left Wing start require some, as will the roof crux.
The route ascends a system not very visible on the photo attached, for its bottom half. For the roof and final dihedral, however, this route is appears on the upper left-hand corner of the photo as a small roof (crux 5.10+) just below a massive trapezoidal roof, which is just the right-hand side of the final dihedral (5.9), to be described. To climb this route, approach as for "FM" and do the opening moves of "FM," up past a pin (5.10+) then up and left to a ledge as for the start of "Left Wing." Alternatively, start by scrambling to this same point. Now, continue up the first 30 feet of "Left Wing," to where it goes left on the face - clip the first bolt and then go right to continue upward in the dihedral. This is insecure 5.10 for a few moves and is sometimes a bit wet. If it is wet, wait until it is dry, so the route goes full-value on fun. From the dihedral, you will place a few cams (1" and 1.5"-2") in the crack overhead through the roof. This is the crux pro, so set it well, and mind the drag with some long slings if you place one in the back of the corner. Undercling out to a lie-back move, then jam and heel-hook to swing through the roof and up. This is solid and powerful 5.10+ but is not sustained. Once over the roof, establish a rest stance and place gear before making some insecure face-moves up to the left side of a hanging pillar, which forms a roof at its bottom. Climb on the left side of the roof formed by said pillar, and up into the dihedral on the left of this pillar to the top (5.9).
The route is very fun and sports a wild array of moves.
The route ascends a system not very visible on the photo attached, for its bottom half. For the roof and final dihedral, however, this route is appears on the upper left-hand corner of the photo as a small roof (crux 5.10+) just below a massive trapezoidal roof, which is just the right-hand side of the final dihedral (5.9), to be described. To climb this route, approach as for "FM" and do the opening moves of "FM," up past a pin (5.10+) then up and left to a ledge as for the start of "Left Wing." Alternatively, start by scrambling to this same point. Now, continue up the first 30 feet of "Left Wing," to where it goes left on the face - clip the first bolt and then go right to continue upward in the dihedral. This is insecure 5.10 for a few moves and is sometimes a bit wet. If it is wet, wait until it is dry, so the route goes full-value on fun. From the dihedral, you will place a few cams (1" and 1.5"-2") in the crack overhead through the roof. This is the crux pro, so set it well, and mind the drag with some long slings if you place one in the back of the corner. Undercling out to a lie-back move, then jam and heel-hook to swing through the roof and up. This is solid and powerful 5.10+ but is not sustained. Once over the roof, establish a rest stance and place gear before making some insecure face-moves up to the left side of a hanging pillar, which forms a roof at its bottom. Climb on the left side of the roof formed by said pillar, and up into the dihedral on the left of this pillar to the top (5.9).
The route is very fun and sports a wild array of moves.
Photos
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