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Bolt_Replacement

 
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Smashed Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.
BETA PHOTO: Smashed Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.
Rusty Underworld (Mission Gorge) Bolt.  6 years new carbon steel 1/2" Rawl/Powers bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Rusty Underworld (Mission Gorge) Bolt. 6 years ne...
Replaced Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.
BETA PHOTO: Replaced Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.
Khazaddum Wedge Bolts - Mission Gorge.  Removed with crowbar 3/2007.
Khazaddum Wedge Bolts - Mission Gorge. Removed wi...
Rawl / Powers replacement photo guide.  Mickey Finn - Mission Gorge.  Both lead bolts replaced 6/2007. <br /> <br />Galvanic action did not seem to be a problem between carbon steel bolt and stainless hanger.  In fact where they met is the only place the bolt was still a little shiny (shielded from water at interface).  Good news since this seems to be common practice in a lot of areas such as Tahquitz.
Rawl / Powers replacement photo guide. Mickey Fin...
3/8" Stainless Power Bolt torque experiment.  40-45 Ft*Lb was needed to break bolt.
3/8" Stainless Power Bolt torque experiment. ...
Vise grip funkness for Power Bolt sleeve removal. <br /> <br />Somebody in the forum mentioned threading the sleeve with a 3/8" tap and pulling it with a 3/8" bolt.  If it works I think I was one upped with that idea.
Vise grip funkness for Power Bolt sleeve removal. ...
Bolts from Your Lead, Mission Gorge.  Note rust on crack on upper hanger.  Indicates crack had been there a while.  Replaced 8/2007.
Bolts from Your Lead, Mission Gorge. Note rust on...
TR bolts removed from Cornered, Mission Gorge (6/2007).  The button head was actually the stronger of the two.  You never know 'till you pull it.
TR bolts removed from Cornered, Mission Gorge (6/2...
Hangers from Aqualunge, Mission Gorge.  These are not even the original hangers on an FA - 1976.  My bet is they are less than 20 years old.  About 15 ft*lb on their stuck nuts was all that was needed to shear the bolts off.  Scary, especially due to the runout nature of this climb. <br /> <br />Replaced 6/2007.
Hangers from Aqualunge, Mission Gorge. These are ...
Some a-hole owes me some money for replacing these.  Most likely retrobution as part of a bolt chopping pissing contest.  I just wanna climb.
Some a-hole owes me some money for replacing these...
The other half of this bolt is stuck at the base of Khazaddum, Mission Gorge.  FIXE never marketed any 10mm bolts in the US, but from what I hear they sold hundreds if not thousands.  The oversized bolt does not work out so well in a 3/8" hole in hard rock.  Luckily the bolt was easy to snap off.  Much easier than even a smaller diameter Powers bolt I bashed around as an experiment. <br /> <br />I ruined a carbide drill trying to punch the remains into the hole.  Some day this plug can be drilled out to open up the hole for the next generation.
The other half of this bolt is stuck at the base o...
Various hardware removed (and replaced) from Glamdring, Mission Gorge.  Anchor and 2 lead bolts replaced.  One in original hole.  Anchor is bomber, expensive stainless 1/2" Power Bolts.  There were holes already started for that so I coughed up the dough.
Various hardware removed (and replaced) from Glamd...
An extraneous bolt removed (and not replaced) from Moby Dick, Santee Boulders.  I was experimenting with my new tuning forks.  #3 LA and #6 Bugaboo with 5/16" slots I milled in them.  I could have used two more LAs to stack or a shim.  I had to finish the job with a crow bar.
An extraneous bolt removed (and not replaced) from...
Crack of Dust anchor.  Note wear on ss carabiner.
BETA PHOTO: Crack of Dust anchor. Note wear on ss carabiner.
Middle Finger anchor - Mission Gorge (replaced 3/2008).  Patched holes will look even better once epoxy dries and light colored dust blows off.
Middle Finger anchor - Mission Gorge (replaced 3/2...
Masochist Anchor.  Thanks CH for removing the original button heads clean out.  Thanks ASCA for the hardware.
Masochist Anchor. Thanks CH for removing the orig...
Chicken Fart original hanger.  This unusable hanger has been replaced with a nice ASCA unit.  Chicken Fart is one of the original Mission Gorge leads.
Chicken Fart original hanger. This unusable hange...
Trapeze Anchor, Mission Gorge.  Replaced 2008.
Trapeze Anchor, Mission Gorge. Replaced 2008.
Old bolts removed from Ramona Wall, Poway.
Old bolts removed from Ramona Wall, Poway.
Bolt testing collage from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire.  Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags.  Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless. <br /> <br />Burned bolt and hanger very strong.
Bolt testing collage from bolt and hanger burned i...
Bolt testing curves from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire.  Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags.  Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless.
Bolt testing curves from bolt and hanger burned in...
Tuning fork in action at Tahquitz
Tuning fork in action at Tahquitz
Zeno's Paradox lower bolt.  Notice the corrosion growth from 2007 to 2009.  Interesting thing is the last place to rust is right where the hammer pounded the bolt in.  I've noticed on Stainless bolts the only place that does rust is where the hammer hit it.  Strange.
Zeno's Paradox lower bolt. Notice the corrosion g...

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