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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chick on the Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heatwave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code aka Pony Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hyperspace Roundup T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Junk Mail T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mail Ridge Variation Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Passing Lane T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scoff TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unbroken Prophet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | T. Bubb, J. Meir, 11/2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,460 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 8, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route climbs up from the second pitch of Ignominity for a 3rd/4th pitch. Climb past the dual thin cracks of Ignominity traverse right into a second crack system, which is above an old bolt not shown in Rossiter's topo of the area. This is just right of what I believe to be his "10b variation" of P3 of Ignominity (pulling over at the bolt is ~12b). Climb the ensuing thin crack in the shallow corner for 30 feet to a ledge. From that ledge this climb continues.
The steep wall above has a system of thin fragile flakes going though it, tending slightly left after a good 2.5" round pocket. Protect the pocket with a 3" cam (Camalot is poor here, use something else) and consider stuffing a few nuts into the flakes if so desired (the only pro on the FA). Continue up and left through the flakes (delicate) to the ledge up top, finishing on a ledge between the final pitches of Sooberb and Long John Wall, maybe 10 feet left of the start of the route "The Knife."
Descend as from the ledge by moving towards the Sooberb Roof and rap from trees (3 raps or 2 raps with a 70m rope) or finish on "The Knife" (recommended) and descend as for Long John Wall.
The name of this route was derived by my partner and me from two points -- the first being that the route was done while I had the flu and was climbing with the namesake temperature increase. The second being 'the fever' to go climb when sick anyway...and added at that, 'the fever' to explore obscure new territory despite the poor-looking pro.
Post-note. The above is altered from the original post and is actually found to be parts of several different routes that pre-existed it.
The steep wall above has a system of thin fragile flakes going though it, tending slightly left after a good 2.5" round pocket. Protect the pocket with a 3" cam (Camalot is poor here, use something else) and consider stuffing a few nuts into the flakes if so desired (the only pro on the FA). Continue up and left through the flakes (delicate) to the ledge up top, finishing on a ledge between the final pitches of Sooberb and Long John Wall, maybe 10 feet left of the start of the route "The Knife."
Descend as from the ledge by moving towards the Sooberb Roof and rap from trees (3 raps or 2 raps with a 70m rope) or finish on "The Knife" (recommended) and descend as for Long John Wall.
The name of this route was derived by my partner and me from two points -- the first being that the route was done while I had the flu and was climbing with the namesake temperature increase. The second being 'the fever' to go climb when sick anyway...and added at that, 'the fever' to explore obscure new territory despite the poor-looking pro.
Post-note. The above is altered from the original post and is actually found to be parts of several different routes that pre-existed it.
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