By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jan 20, 2007
Thanks for posting the picture, Stephen. First off, that sure looks like a BELAY ANCHOR ONLY, and not intended to rap off of. The configuration you've got there with the rope running directly through webbing (i.e., no rap ring/chain) as well as directly through the bolt hanger is not recommended.
As for the anchor itself, it must have sprouted in the past year. I no longer live in the area, but as I stated before, my opinion is that it isn't needed. My suggestion is to just carry a second rope like people have been doing for nearly 50 years when climbing routes at Sespe.
Thanks for the clarification and update of recent conditions at Sespe. These bolts are definitely new (within the last year), and I can't figure out what they are for. If they are "rappel bolts" then why aren't they set up for rappel? (Incidentally, I am glad you survived rapping off the setup shown in the photo Stephen)! If they are "belay bolts," why would anyone want to belay 70 feet up? (The recently retrobolted/bolted-crack belay station 150 feet is bad enough). Are they for toproping the bottom 70 feet? Weird. This recent trend of tinkering and "improving" existing lines never ceases to amaze me.