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The final P7, another long friction pitch. Bring cams to set up the belay, I think I used a .5, 1, and 2
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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 3, 2008
i used 2 2's and a 3. you know nuzzing.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
May 21, 2009
If you like, there is a huge bucket that provides the most perfect hip belay ever...no cams needed.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2009
you're right about that, josh. the one thing problem i could foresee would be that it would be difficult to transfer a loaded belay over to an anchor if this became necessary. the crack to build the anchor isn't easily accessible from a seated position in the bowl.

i talked with dave jones last week and he told a funny story about how he got off route and lead this pitch with no gear before the bolts were installed! apparently, one other climber he knows had done this as well. can you imagine leading this with no pro at all?? kudos to you dave!
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
May 22, 2009
No gear? Might as well untie...there aren't even pockets for tri-cams the slab is so damn perfect. In regards to the belay transferring it would be difficult if someone needed to get hauled up...best to throw in a couple cams for sure. Myself and a friend decided to start this route late in the day thanksgiving 2007...ended up two pitches from the top looking across the valley at the most beautiful sunset we had ever seen. He lead the last pitch by headlamp (we only had one) and i hauled on the line from bolt to bolt with the wind blowing swinging me like a rag doll. When i got to the top, i walked up to him sitting in the bucket with no pro in (a 120 pound gentleman belaying the full 230 pounds of myself). He said to me, "if there was ever a place to do a hip belay, this is it." We tested it pretty good, so i didn't complain.
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The final P7, another long friction pitch. Bring cams to set up the belay, I think I used a .5, 1, and 2

Submitted By: Christian on Jan 7, 2007
On this route:
Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a )
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