Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Mark Schlocker and Shannon Scott 5/27/2006
Page Views: 983 total · 5/month
Shared By: mschlocker on May 28, 2006
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Situated between Frito Bandito and Shady Lane. Head up a finger crack to under a roof. Pull the roof (straight up) to a ledge. Head up and left and lieback a wide crack. Up and left around a bush lies the bolted rap anchor. Due to the nature of the area and zero traffic on this route the rock is rough and friable in parts. I dislodged a 20 pound flake on the FA with negligible force. Due to my being cavalier on the FA, I went up with only a t-shirt for warmth. After pulling the roof rope drag became a bear and I spent some time sussing out a face that goes straight up before choosing the crack to the left. I set up a belay at the end of the crack and swear I was going hypothermic (hence Friable Icicle) at the end of a windy day. When I saw the bolts 15' of easy face climbing above the belay I had to kick myself.

Location Suggest change

Just right of the chimney route on the lower tier of Stonewall Peak. Finish at bolted rap anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Small Aliens to large cams (#3-4 C4 Camalots). Be careful when rappelling; it is almost exactly 100' to the ground from the bolted rap anchor.

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