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Routes in Fortress Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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An Ode to the Battlement T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso I (direct variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cussin crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fun-Time For Fonzo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oozing Couth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PLENTY Of Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Route 52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | B. Molzon, D. Shori, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 6,700 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
The crux is getting off the ground, and I feel that has never been accounted for in the traditional grade of 5.4. The climb is probably more like 5.6. I have photos of trad newbies getting boosts (standing in cupped hands, on knees and backs, etc...) to get started on it!
Once you do, it is good rock, good gear and good moves up the crack system for 60' to a ledge.
This was my college girlfriend's first ever trad lead. An older pal followed her on it, cleaning. Casey asked time and time again:
"How was my (such and such a piece)?"
Bruce would answer:
"Pretty good" or "You could have placed a bigger hex."
Just before the bulge up top he was hard for her to hear:
"How was that last hex"
"You could hang a cow on it"
"What?"
"You could hang a cow on it"
"I can't hear you."
"You could hang a cow on it"
"Tony, what did he say."
"He said it would hold you."
The crowd below burst out in laughter.
"Oh. What is so funny?"
I was later in pretty big trouble...
Once you do, it is good rock, good gear and good moves up the crack system for 60' to a ledge.
This was my college girlfriend's first ever trad lead. An older pal followed her on it, cleaning. Casey asked time and time again:
"How was my (such and such a piece)?"
Bruce would answer:
"Pretty good" or "You could have placed a bigger hex."
Just before the bulge up top he was hard for her to hear:
"How was that last hex"
"You could hang a cow on it"
"What?"
"You could hang a cow on it"
"I can't hear you."
"You could hang a cow on it"
"Tony, what did he say."
"He said it would hold you."
The crowd below burst out in laughter.
"Oh. What is so funny?"
I was later in pretty big trouble...
Location
This climb is just right of center in the main amphitheatre of Fortress Wall. It is identified by two features, it's proximity and shared start with American Wall, a pattern of darker flakes, resembling a map of North America just out of reach of the ground, and the wide crack and left-facing corner to it's right.
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