Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 640 total · 3/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
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Warning Access Issue: See bullet points in description. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start out of the woods and climb the thin crack watching carefully for loose feet. There is a thin hands to fingers crux that would be hand-size dependent but felt 9+ to me. The rest of it is about 8 or 9 with a few crack boulder problems. Watch the loose blocks and have your second bring a hammer and knock some of that stuff off. Kinda of a cool route for where it is and would make a nice warmup for Psychostematic if it were cleaner.

I could probably have belayed from the large tree/bush to the right but opted for the comfort of the Psychobabble belay anchors. This gives you some rope drag though.

Definitely reinforcing the realization that the Psychobabble Wall is one of the crown jewels of BCC.

Location Suggest change

This route is actually below the Psychobabble Wall and follows the thin-ish crack system below Rock Capades. It's on the right of the underside of a fin of rock that is most easily seen from the meadow or on the Bumble Bee Wall.

Protection Suggest change

TCUs through #1 Camalot, nuts, a few long draws

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