BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 5 of Groover. Below me is the ...
Description
For many years, Laurel Knob was The Un-named Crag, a secret destination known to the chosen few. Climbing was illegal here, but that didn’t stop the determined climbers who saw the imposing granite dome rising out of Lonesome Valley near Big Green Mountain. They thrashed and bushwhacked for hours through thick rhododendron to the base of the cliff, looking up in awe at an expanse of rock so tall they couldn’t see the top.
Undeterred, these hardcore climbers began the first ascents of the exposed, water-grooved face, putting up routes of up to 10 pitches. And they made do with what they had: leaders who came later would arrive at the next bolt and discover with horror that it was a carriage bolt hammered into the wall with loops of rusty bailing wire to clip to.
Because it was a secret crag for so long, documentation on the first ascentionists and even route names isn’t easy to come by. But that won’t be the case much longer; in 2006, the Carolina Climbers Coalition pulled off the stunning achievement of purchasing Laurel Knob, with the help of donations by climbers all over the world. Now the 1,200-foot dome is open to all climbers, and the CCC has replaced the old hardware on most of the well-known routes like Fathom and Groover.
Some important points of information about Laurel Knob:
This is one of the tallest (if not THE tallest) crags in the eastern US.
LK is a remote area with serious multi-pitch climbing. It is not a place for inexperienced climbers.
Regarding access, Laurel Knob is owned by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, which is working hard to maintain good relations with neighboring landowners. If you're going to climb here, you MUST respect and follow the CCC rules, which can be found at http://www.carolinaclimbers.org.
Getting There
Laurel Knob is in the Cashiers Valley. Make your way to the town of Cashiers and take US 64 east of the town. Continue two or three miles to Cedar Creek Road and take a left (north). Follow this winding road into the hills until it intersects with Breedlove Road; take a right here and continue past Christmas tree farm fields for several miles. The road changes to gravel and ends in the Panthertown trailhead parking lot. This is the starting point for the long and strenuous hike in to Laurel Knob. Allow about two hours for the hike in and up to three hours for the hike out.
NOTE: This trail is the only legal access to Laurel Knob. If you come in from the valley below -- no matter who you're friends with -- you are trespassing!
Hike down the road toward Panthertown valley. At the first intersection with another old road, take a right and continue about 10-15 minutes to a creek crossing (Frolictown Creek). Ford the creek and hike another mile or so to a fork. Take the right fork (the smaller trail) and after another 10 minutes or so, be on the lookout for a trail that angles up and right from the main trail. This should be marked by a small wooden sign saying "Laurel Knob."
Continue on this winding trail through the woods, crossing a stream on a log and past the marked corner of the property line between the CCC property and that of the forest service. Follow pink and/or blue flagged markers and cross over a mossy slab. Before long, you'll see a gravel road and buildings to the left; this is private property. Stick to the trail; continue past the CCC kiosk and down a steep 600' series of switchbacks to the base of the main Laurel Knob face.
At this point, you should come out on a well-groomed trail put in place by the Lonesome Valley development. Continue along this trail until you reach the small clearing at the base of the direct start of Seconds. From here, the Lonesome Valley trail goes down and left; the climbers' trail goes uphill from Seconds and continues along the cliff base.
Central Pillar is a great option if you arrive at LK and find lots of the routes wet. The first three pitches go at 5.9 and can easily be rapped. The third pitch is amazing.P1: Climb the short corner to a horizontal that leads right to a sweet finger crack. Follow the crack until it ends then slab up past two bolts to a bolted belay. 5.8, 150 feetP2: Step left to a crack and mantel up on a sloping wide ramp that leads right to another crack...[more]
The CCC is still trying to pay for this awesome cliff. Cost $250,000. We still owe around $25,000. Thanks to everyone who has donated. Help us get over the top by making your tax deductible donation today. Go to www.carolinaclimbers.org for details on how to help.
The CCC met its goal of raising $250,000!! LK is now owned by the CCC on behalf of climbers everywhere. Thanks to all who helped make this acquisition possible. As an aside, the CCC still has annual expenses such as insurance and property taxes for the cliff. Comes to around 3-4k per year. Donations are appreciated. More info can be obtained at www.carolinaclimbers.org.
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