6 days ago
Here is a climber clipping the bolt on the third pitch, getting set for the .11a friction up to that three finger sloper for the right and the sick little cross-over with the right to tag the ever-deepening tips rail that slants up and right. There is little to no pro for a little while, so just crank on through, knowing that bomber pro will come to be as you run it out above that lone bolt.This is the section that Dave Reardon is said to have soloed, and think about that when you lead it!! I think this is the single most sketchy part of the whole climb. You'll need a TCU, either a zero or a one, for the tips seam, so have it on the ready in front as you muscle across that little thing. It gets better as you move, but there is only friction for the feet.