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Todd Smith sends
Id# 105887558, 1499 x 995px View full size
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By tony grice
Nov 15, 2006
NICE!
By dnaiscool
Mar 6, 2014
Here is a climber clipping the bolt on the third pitch, getting set for the .11a friction up to that three finger sloper for the left and the reach with the right to tag the ever-deepening tips rail that slants up and right. There is little to no pro for a little while, so just crank on through, knowing that bomber pro will come to be as you run it out above that lone bolt.This is the section that Dave Reardon is said to have soloed, and think about that when you lead it!! I think this is the single most sketchy part of the whole climb. You'll need a TCU, either a zero or a one, for the tips seam, so have it on the ready in front as you muscle across that little thing. It gets better as you move, but there is only friction for the feet.
By dhayan
Apr 7, 2014
Lol
Photo 17 of 24
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Todd Smith sends

Submitted By: tony grice on Nov 15, 2006
On this route:
The Vampire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c )
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