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West Desert

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Appetite for Destruction 
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Western Hardman 


West Desert


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Submitted By: Duncan on Nov 11, 2006
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Elevation: 4,500 feet
Latitude: 39.1620  Longitude: -113.3830 
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Notch Peak (This is the correct canyon to hike to ...


Description 

12 Pitch, Grade IV, 5.11 limestone monster. Adventure climbing in remote canyon. Rockfall danger; requires discretion in gear placement. All day fun. Most of the route is easy to find; 9 out of 10 rap down in the dark.

Notch Peak canyon (no name on USGS topos) West side of Sawtooth Mountain, House Mountain Range, West desert, Utah


Getting There 

45 minutes west of Delta, UT. Highway 6/50.
Take Notch Peak loop on WEST side of Sawtooth mountain. This dirt road also goes to Painter Springs. Turn right,towards mountain at an abandoned gravel pit. The entire region looks like a gravel pit. Identify the correct pit by a road turning left, back to the highway, just after you pass your road toward the mountain.
Sedans can make it up this road until the big squarish boulder. 4WD vehicles can drop into the riverbed (dry) just before the boulder.
Don't hike the canyon at the end of this road. Notch Peak canyon has an large and obvious dry riverbed all across it. The correct canyon is 200 Meters south.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Desert:
La Fin du Monde   5.10     Trad, Grade III   
Book of Saturday   5.11a R     Trad, Sport, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade V   
Western Hardman   5.11     Trad, 12 pitches, Grade IV   
Appetite for Destruction   5.12a/b     Trad, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in West Desert

Featured Route For West Desert
Aaron at the top. Yes its very dark, and don't let the sad look fool you, he's very happy! 8)

Western Hardman 5.11  UT : West Desert
To print the topos left click the picture and then right click the photo, click "Save Picture As" and then select a location to save it to your hard drive. Print it from there. This should correct any problems incurred from printing the topo directly from the site....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of West Desert Slideshow Add Photo
Notch Peak.

Notch Peak.

Notch peak looms above the granite slabs

Notch peak looms above the granite slabs

Moon and sunrise in the Utah's west desert

Moon and sunrise in the Utah's west desert

Notch Peak rises above the pink granite of Sawtooth Canyon.

Notch Peak rises above the pink granite of Sawtoot...

The Tombstone at the mouth of Sawtooth Canyon.

The Tombstone at the mouth of Sawtooth Canyon.

Looking down Optimizer (5.11b/c) on the Tombstone.

Looking down Optimizer (5.11b/c) on the Tombstone....

Notch Peak at sunset.

Notch Peak at sunset.

Double rainbow over the Sevier Lake bed at sunset.

Double rainbow over the Sevier Lake bed at sunset.

Approach map to Sawtooth Canyon and Notch Peak:<br />Pull off highway 6/50 onto dark gravel road around mile marker 43.  This road converges with a dirt road called the Tule Valley Road.  This road leads to Painter Springs.  From the highway, drive approximately 6.5 miles to a four-way intersection.  Turn right onto the rough road and drive for about two miles and park in a clearing just before the streambed.  If you brought a high-clearance vehicle with four-wheel drive that you don't mind scratching up, you can drive up the wash for another half mile to the wilderness study area sign.

BETA PHOTO: Approach map to Sawtooth Canyon and Notch Peak:
Pu...


The Tombstone, Sawtooth Cyn.--West Desert  "Way harder than it looks--but just as good as it looks."

The Tombstone, Sawtooth Cyn.--West Desert "Way ha...

beautiful limestone just south of notch peak. Routes like this are everywhere.

beautiful limestone just south of notch peak. Rout...

Notch Peak from the west.

Notch Peak from the west.


Comments on West Desert Add Comment
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By Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Nov 11, 2006

Please remember to bring a HELMET regardless. A HEADLAMP (Check the batteries I made that mistake once), and plan according to your abilities. It's a great climb but you should prepare for a full day. Hike to the climb before sunrise and climb till dark. Late July the sun is only on the wall in the early morning!

By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2006

Western Hardman is my favorite route on Notch Peak. Kudos to Aaron and CJ. I still think our bivy just out of the steam bed below the route was the way to go and such great camping, as well! I WOULD have liked to see more bolts up high! Strange if you rap drilled the upper ones, they were the hardest to protect in my book...not the last one, but the one before that.
Still thanks for a great line and whoever disses Notch Peak climbing just hasn't climbed newer lines on limestone before...what do you think the Marmolada was like in 1938? You guys need to just stay on your 30m sport crags and quit bitching....
Cheers

By Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007

James,
Aaron and I went back and added about 6 bolts, one on the traverse to pitch 11 to make that safer, also, I believe one went up on pitch 11 to help direct the correct climbing path and as well help protect it. Another on pitch 10, and on 9, two others went up somewhere, hopefully on route as it was getting really dark by then… kidding!

By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Nov 29, 2007

The amount of climbable rock in this vicinity is mind blowing. There is another canyon like Sawtooth a few miles north in the House Range which looks to contain several BIG domes/crags.

By TP in SLC
Oct 31, 2008

Shouldn't this page be re-named Notch Peak?