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The Brickyard
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Ant Boulder 
Buzzzz Boulder 
Charlotte's Web Area 
Coffee Boulder 
Dancing Outlaw Boulder 
Extremist Boulder 
Owl Farm, The 
Rat Boulder 
Roaches Boulder, The 
Soot Patrol Boulder 
Yeti Boulder 

The Brickyard 


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Lat, Long: 34.4978, -119.8611 Map
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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 9, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: This shows the general location of the major bould...

Description 

Shady sandstone bouldering area in Santa Barbara. High density makes this a very enjoyable area. There are some great taller problems, and a few excellent traverses. The rock quality is very good for the most part, but the area is relatively small.


Getting There 

Take West Camino Cielo off the 154 in Santa Barbara. Short approach, 10 minutes or so down hill.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Brickyard:
Army Ant   V0-     Boulder, 17 feet   Ant Boulder
Piss Ant   V0     Boulder, 17 feet   Ant Boulder
Moderate   V0+     Boulder, 15 feet   Extremist Boulder
The Extremist   V1     Boulder, 20 feet   Extremist Boulder
Under Rover traverse   V1     Boulder, 15 feet   Charlotte's Web Area
Charlotte's Web   V3     Boulder, 20 feet   Charlotte's Web Area
Paradise Blend   V4-     Boulder, 15 feet   Coffee Boulder
Yeti   V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Yeti Boulder
South Street   V4     Boulder, 10 feet   The Owl Farm
Watch the Dog   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Soot Patrol Boulder
Lonesome Pine   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   Dancing Outlaw Boulder
The Ant Traverse   V5     Boulder, 30 feet   Ant Boulder
Sasquatch   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   Yeti Boulder
Smooth Criminal   V6     Boulder, 12 feet   Dancing Outlaw Boulder
Grin and Bear It   V6+     Boulder, 12 feet   The Owl Farm
Mr Witty   V7     Boulder, 20 feet   Soot Patrol Boulder
Grotesque Old Woman   V7+     Boulder, 25 feet   Charlotte's Web Area
Akiba's Prison   V8     Boulder, 25 feet   Dancing Outlaw Boulder
Dancing Outlaw   V8     Boulder, 20 feet   Dancing Outlaw Boulder
All Mod Cons   V9     Boulder, 20 feet   Soot Patrol Boulder
Browse More Classics in The Brickyard

Featured Route For The Brickyard
Mary Patterson throwing for the jug. Photo courtesy of Hjordis and Bernd Zeugswetter.

Yeti V4  CA : Central Coast : ... : Yeti Boulder
Start on obvious edges at head height then move up and left to a spicy top-out....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Brickyard Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset at the Brickyard shortly after it re-opened in '09.

Sunset at the Brickyard shortly after it re-opened...


Comments on The Brickyard Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2013
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
May 11, 2010

Can someone post a topo maybe? The descriptions leave something to be desired... (would be nice if the problems were grouped by boulder or all had a picture). Thanks dudes.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 18, 2010

A reorganization of this area is in progress.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 20, 2010

Read and learn:

www.king-dino.com/rant.html

We are ALL responsible. Pick up your trash. Nuff' said.

By Michael Stearns
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 24, 2011

Unfortunately, the A-holes responsible probably don't read this site or king-dino.com. We should post the rant at the entrance to the Brickyard.

As a community we need to CONFRONT the people disrespecting this fantastic area.

I recently had a very disappointing interaction with someone unnecessarily chopping a tree and clearing a landing. This is only one instance of some of the crappy stuff I have seen.

Telling someone you don't approve is the only way to let them know their behavior is unacceptable.

By Bucky
From: West Coast
May 16, 2011

Please DO NOT DRAW on the rocks! The Charlotte's Web area was covered in awful sidewalk chalk "art". If whoever did this needs to express their feelings about "peace, love, climbing" do it by picking up trash not graffiting the place. I spent a good long time brushing off the drawings and I really don't enjoy giving up my climbing time to pick up after assholes so stop doing this.

By Michael Stearns
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 31, 2011

This seems to be happening at every area. Painted Cave, Brickyard, and Lizard's Mouth all have this bulls@!#. Really a bummer.

By AdamB
From: Charlotte, NC
Oct 28, 2011

Any camping in the area? In a perfect world the free and non-sketchy variety...

By Tim King
Feb 26, 2012

Good slopers at the Brickyard
Good slopers at the Brickyard
Submitted By: Tim King on Feb 26, 2012


Hey, was just wondering if anyone had any info on this problem here. I think it's on the Great Shark Hunt (40' traverse) boulder, but the only mentions of problems here in the guidebook (O11) were Lets Troll! and Chummin', each of which descriptions don't seem to match this problem. I was starting on the big lip, moving up passed crimps to the sloping rail and then using some balancy moves passed slopes to gain the top. Just curious as I haven't seen anyone else work it, but it seems to be a great problem. Brickyard rips.

Made this little video (sorry for crappy video quality) for this climb 'cause I had my camera and it's actually quite a fun climb. Was wondering if you went about it similarly?
  • beta spoiler*

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 27, 2012

Re: Tim King's question

We scrubbed and climbed that route last year, calling it The Rats of Nimh, due to the rodent-nest sitting on the starting jug. Bernd thinks he may have done it sooner, but he can't quite remember. We call it V5 or V6, depending on the day.

By JakeOlsen
Mar 20, 2012

Does anyone know anything about this route. Its on the same boulder as the picture above. Its on the face just left of the arete. It pretty much goes straight up on slopers and a couple smal crimps. Feels like a 4 maybe 5.
Does anyone know anything about this route. Its on the same boulder as the picture above. Its on the face just left of the arete. It pretty much goes straight up on slopers and a couple smal crimps. Feels like a 4 maybe 5.
Submitted By: JakeOlsen on Mar 20, 2012


Just a heads up i'm aware the picture is bad

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 22, 2012

Hey there, climbing community of SB.

For the second time in the last year, I've had to mitigate forest-fire potential at the Yard'. On Friday night some campers dug a fire-hole directly under Grotesque Old Woman, and when I arrived for a bouldering session on Saturday morning, there was a SMOKING PIT OF ASHES. It was a hot and dry day, with a steady breeze. Eek. Needless to say, my friends and I had to sacrifice most of our drinking water to douse the pile of embers. That's not how I like to end a session of rock-climbing.

If you see potential culprits cavorting with fire at The Brickyard—or anywhere else in the hills— you might choose from the following options:

A) take a deep breath, remember that many of this generation were raised by the show "Jackass", and strongly discourage behavior.
B) Do nothing

I vote for option "A". I have many friends who lost property and/or possessions in the Tea and Jesusita fire. They might not be so understanding.

Encourage good sense. Reap the benefits.

By Tim King
Jan 9, 2013

Cleared out a few firepits the other day. One directly behind Charlotte's Web, the other under the start of Soot Patrol). Both blackened the rock pretty well, and the one near Charlottes still had some embers. Didn't get a chance to have a word with the people who left them (saw them on the way in) but I'll certainly do so if I see them around again...

By Bob Banks
Jan 10, 2013

Thanks, Tim. Can we clone you? Cause almost nobody else seems to give a shit.

By Tim King
Jan 20, 2013

Sure, though I can't guarantee you'll get only the positive characteristics, heh...

Really though, it's a lot of your little 'reminders' that have inspired some of the things I now do, such as always bringing a bag to pick up trash (makes it super easy to grab the little stuff, like cig butts, tape, cans etc) and just generally trying to leave the area nicer than you found it.

You want to climb here today, tomorrow and hopefully 20 years from now. Areas like this are rare, treat them with the respect they deserve.

By Will Barnes
From: Goleta, CA
3 days ago

If looking for a highly pleasant bouldering experience at the Brickyard I would recommend this circuit:

Deep forest arete->Way Under->Way under traverse->Charlotte's Web->Yeti->Watch the Dog->Smooth Criminal->Your project or move areas and keep it going with whatever problems you can think of. For a bonus do it in under 5 minutes.

Also maybe this deserves a separate discussion but I thought if people felt so inclined it would be cool to pool together some good circuits of all difficulties for the different SB bouldering areas (think Font minus the color coding). Any interest?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
1 day ago

Great idea. I'll start mulling over my notes...