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Dancing Madly Backwards
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 111
votes
Routes in 1. Old Sandstone
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Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bass Tree TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Broken Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Down Under TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eight Plus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Everleigh Club Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Girls Named Sue T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hippie Flip TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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One-Upper T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2+ 5+ R |
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Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ptooey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shin Bone TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swillbillies T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarantula T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ten-ish Shoes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Choices TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uberschmidt TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wobbly Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | First Lead: Dave Groth, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 7,282 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Dancing Madly Backwards is a great route to try if 5.9's are starting to get less challenging. There's good friction on the sandstone, and the wall isn't quite vertical.
Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up and over roof. Continue up to the shallow dihedral. The last few moves are on small holds (crux 2). A delightful climb!
Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up and over roof. Continue up to the shallow dihedral. The last few moves are on small holds (crux 2). A delightful climb!
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