Mountain Project: Climbing Joe's Valley

Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.

There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.

While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.

Getting There

Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.

Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.

Food and Supplies

There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Barn. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.

Camping

There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.

The Classics

Featured Route For Joe's Valley

Chips V7 UT : Joe's Valley : ... : Chip and Dale

This problem begins on Planet of the Apes but instead of getting the crimp with your left hand go to it with your right. Work your way left around the corner and get the rail feature with your left hand. The higher the better because the next move is a deadpoint dyno up and right. I have see people do it static using an intermediate hold. Some people think this is easier than Planet of the Apes....[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Joe's Valley

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By Bobby Hanson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2006

Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.

Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.

Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley.
http://www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=JVA>>>>>.
You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not.

By willo schubarth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 21, 2009

I would recommend the Video Guide to Joe's Valley a film by Nathan Cando, it goes through 28 of the classic problems and also a guidebook that plays during the movie. Found wherever climbing videos are available.

By Paul Dieterle
From: Mad City, WI
Jun 1, 2009

what's the best time of year for joe's valley?

By scott kuchinski
Jul 22, 2009

October is great. Average 50-70 degrees. Great friction.

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Joe's Valley

Description

Getting There

Food and Supplies

Camping

The Classics