Buttermilk Country

Buttermilk Country

Description 

The incredibly scenic Buttermilk Country has long been one of California's premier bouldering destinations with a long history of ground-breaking ascents and some of the proudest and prettiest lines in the world. Included here are The Mandala, Evilution, Saigon, and High Plains Drifter to name a few. These massive glacial erratic boulders are made of coarse monzonite granite with giant rounded blank faces, polished patina plates, slopers and crimpy edges. The rock could perhaps be compared to that found in Joshua Tree, only slightly grainier. Fingers tend to get torn up fairly quick so bring tape if your callouses aren't sufficient. Many boulders also offer steep and overhanging faces with iron-hard slick patina edges that test your footwork greatly and give your screaming fingertips a break... until you top out.

The bouldering here is BIG. A number of problems feature reachy standing or jumping starts with huge moves, and on many routes you'll soon find your feet well above a height you'd want to bail at. Don't leave any foam at home. Bring all of your pads because lots of the classics top out at 20+ feet. Before you hop on a boulder scout the down-climb first, as many require a big jump to the ground. Be friendly to your neighboring climbers - you may be asking to borrow a pad...

To add to the beautifully unique egg-like boulders, climbers are treated with a splendid backdrop of the towering Sierras, rising almost 14,000 feet to the west.

If you get carried away and have over-done it and you can't boulder anymore there is some fun roped climbing on a handful of small crags not far to the north. If your tips are raw and bleeding, you may want to explore the wacky chasms and rock formations of Buttermilk Dome.

Please respect the designated footpaths in the Buttermilks Main area and avoid tromping through the vegetation. A restoration effort is in effect marked by small green signs about a foot high. PLEASE AVOID THESE AREAS. Do NOT place crash pads on any sort of vegetation. Let's leave as little trace as possible in this amazing gift of an area. Consider yourself fortunate to be climbing here.

Dog Owners: Rattlesnakes are fairly common in warmer months so take precautions and know the risks if you have a furry friend. My dog had a close call and I've heard of a few other run-ins. Most dogs know to avoid them, just be careful. A bite to your pup's face could ruin your trip. Don't let this deter you though, as rattlers usually give plenty of warning that you're getting too close.

Please do not camp at the Peabody Boulders or The Birthday Boulders parking areas. There's plenty of free camping before and after the Buttermilks Main Area.

DO NOT SPEED ON BUTTERMILK ROAD, THE SPEED LIMIT IS 25 MPH
Many locals walk and bike on this road, and it's easy to stir up dust if you're driving too fast. Be respectful and slow down. Speeding also causes the painfully annoying washboard ruts you'll find on the way in, so do your part and drive slowly.

Getting There 

From downtown Bishop, take W. Line Street/Highway 168 west towards the Sierras. After eight miles or so, turn right onto Buttermilk Road. Follow this bumpy, washboard road for approximately 3.5 miles to the main area on your right. If you pass the Peabodies without noticing, you probably aren't a climber, because they are gigantic. The boulders are incredibly obvious on the right (north) side of the road. Park in designated areas.

For more complete information and great color photographs, refer to: "Bishop Bouldering", by Wills Young and Mick Ryan. Pick up a copy at Wilson's Eastside Sports for $36, a small price to pay for perhaps the best bouldering guide out there and a great addition to your book collection.

The Classics

Featured Route For Buttermilk Country

Evilution V12-13 R  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Grandpa Peabody Boulder

This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit be...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Buttermilk Country Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Buttermilks Overview Photo	View from atop Buttermilk Dome	Mt. Tom and the Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.
Bouldering at The Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.	Bouldering at The Buttermilks, 1980s. Photo by Bli...	Snack time at The Buttermilks. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking southeast towards Little Egypt from the Bu...	Looking north towards the Wheeler Crest from the B...	Buttermilk morning. Photo by Blitzo.
Funky Tut. Photo by Blitzo.	Grandpa Peabody	Area ? on the way to the Birthday Boulders
Tut Boulder. Photo: Blitzo collection.	Buttermilk Dome	The Buttermilks, looking east over Bishop and the ...
Doug Robinson deep into being lost on Smoke's Rock...	Winter Sunrise on the Sierra from Buttermilk Road.	Rest day in the Buttermilks
Erika at the b'milks	Erika working a low traverse	Mt. Tom at sunrise
Buttermilk Road, January '06	Winter in the 'Milks	One of the biggest blocs in the Buttermilks: The ...
Mount Humphreys (left) and Basin Mountain, a coupl...	Bob Horan bouldering in the Buttermilks.	BHhb in the Buttermilks, photo: Bob Horan Collecti...
Moon and boulder in the Buttermilks	Buttermilks Panorama	View from the old mine at Buttermilks, CA
Mt. Tom towering over the Buttermilks	Buttermilking	Sun setting over Mt. Tom, from the Buttermilks