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DescriptionLocated near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall. Getting ThereLooking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Second Coming 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet South Side
Bloody Crack 5.7+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II South Side
Sundial Crack 5.8- Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III Nose Area
First Return 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet South Side
Gemini Crack 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet South Side
Rat's Ass 5.8+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet South Side
Zodiac 5.8+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet South Side
Unfinished Concerto 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet South Side
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV Sun Wall
The Sperm 5.9+ Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II North Side
The Seal 5.10a PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet North Side
Dinkus Dog 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet South Side
Dum Dee Dum Dum 5.10c PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 230 feet Nose Area
Invisible Airways 5.10c A2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III North Side
The Womb 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II North Side
Cornflake Crack 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II North Side
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV North Side
Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Invisible Airways 5.10c A2 NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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