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Taos Area


7 people found this page useful
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Oct 4, 2006
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 36.4059  Longitude: -105.5740 
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Bat Cave finish.
Andrewburr.com Photography



Town of Taos and Surrounding Area 

Taos, "the Place of the Red Willow" in the native Tiwa of the Pueblo Indians, has long been the rendezvous of the Southern Sangre de Cristo Mountains and of the various cultures that call this region home. The Spanish referred to it as "Remote Beyond Compare" and it is for that reason it has remained to this day, unspoiled. Artists since have gathered at the foot of the Sangre De Cristo to take advantage of the high desert light and how it plays along the peaks and down into the Rio Grande Rift valley. Georgia O'Keefe, Ansel Adams, Paul Strand, Dorthea Lange and fellow Taos artists had an affection for the "Taos Light" and the extraordinary diversity of landforms and cultures in northern New Mexico.

Taosenos enjoy a diverse topography spanning from the basalt crags of the Rio Grande Gorge (John Dunn Bridge Area, Dead Cholla Wall, Miner's Crag, Utopian Vistas, Vista Verde Crag, Wild and Scenic, from about 5500 to 7000 ft) to the pristine granite of Tres Piedras or Questa Dome, the metamorphic rocks of Comales Canyon (up to 10,000 ft.) and the cobble conglomerate of El Rito all within a reasonable drive from one of the oldest continually inhabited communities in the U.S. Bring your sense of adventure and independence (as well as your rack, rod, boat, bike and skis/board) and get lost in the expanse. Gradual development and expansion of local crags has added a variety of new sport and trad pitches in the area surrounding Taos.

Disclaimer: As Lew Wallce once said: "Every calculation based on experience elsewhere, fails in New Mexico", and that may be doubly true for Taos. (Therefore climbing is dangerous, BETA is just that, use your own judgement, blah, blah ...). Oh, and if you are wondering, "Taos" rhymes with "house".

Jay Foley working "Letting Go" 12c in the Bat Cave, Vista Verde near Taos
Jay Foley working "Letting Go" 12c in the Bat Cave, Vista Verde near Taos
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Jun 12, 2009

Photo: Jay Foley working "Letting Go" in the Bat Cave. On loan from Bob D'Antonio Collection


Local Climbing Resources 

Guide Service - Mountain Skills http://climbingschoolusa.com/index.html
Shops- Taos Mountain Outfitters http://www.taosmountainoutfitters.com/ or Mudd N Flood 134 Bent Street Taos, NM 87571 (505)751-9100
Guidebook: Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico. Author:Jay Foley Publisher: Sharp End Publishing, 2005
and/or Rock Climbing New Mexico (Regional Rock Climbing Series) by Dennis Jackson

Taos Mountain Film Festival

- yearly in early October

http://www.taosvacationguide.com/
http://www.taospueblo.com/

Cycling Resources


Guidebook
Gearing Up Bicycle Shop
Taos Cyclery
Recommended MTB Rides
South Boundry Trail
Others

Hospital/Medical Care

Holy Cross Hospital


Holy Cross Hospital
1397 Weimer Road
Taos, New Mexico 87571
Phone: 575-758-8883

South of Town. Go East on Canon Bypass (look for Chevron at corner of Paseo Del Pueblo and Canon Bypass). About 1/2 mile to Weimer Road turn Right (South) to Hospital (Approx 1 mile)

Taos Search and Rescue


High Angle Unit:Richard McCracken - 776-5226/mcracken@laplaza.org


Getting to Taos 

From Albuquerque: I-25 to Santa Fe; exit on 599 north to by-pass Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.
From Arizona: I-40 WEST to Albuquerque; I-25 to Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.
From Denver: I-25 to Colorado Springs to Walsenburg; Hwy. 160 to Fort Garland; Hwy. 159 and Hwy. 522 to Taos.
From Texas: I-40 EAST to Albuquerque; I-25 to Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.

Driving Distances / Approximate Times to Taos

Albuquerque 135 mi. / 2:15
Amarillo 302 mi / 5:00
Dallas 682 mi / 11:00
Denver 300 mi / 5:00
Durango 208 mi / 3:30
Phoenix 568 mi / 8:30
Santa Fe 72 mi / 1:15


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Taos Area:
Chicken Heads   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Chicken Shit   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Serpentine Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8)   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 310 feet   Questa Dome : The Legs
Yikes Dikes   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Tres Piedras : South Rock
Mama Jugs   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Alien   5.9     Trad   Tres Piedras : West Rock
(15) Tijerina   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area
Unknown (South Face Right)   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Tres Piedras : South Rock
Clean Green Dream   5.9     Trad, 140 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Gila Monster   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley
Bienvenidos   5.10a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Better Red Than Dead   5.10b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Serpent Face   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
(48) Chomping at the Bit   5.11a     Sport, 70 feet   Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall
Surface Tension   5.11- PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   Tres Piedras : South Rock
Question of Balance   5.11- PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   Questa Dome : Questa Dome
Digital Dilemma   5.11a/b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley
(02) Obamanos!   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall
(10) Milagro Beanfield War   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall
Browse More Classics in Taos Area

Featured Route For Taos Area
Nice warm up hang.  Start on Gavilan, Raya Negra, Out Rage Us and work your way left.

(01) Blockbuster 5.12  NM : Taos Area : ... : 4. Afterburner Face
Climb broken overhanging face to thin moves above....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Taos Area Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew Burr Photography

Andrew Burr Photography

Taos Pueblo<br /><br />Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.<br />

Taos Pueblo

Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All...



Comments on Taos Area Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007

More importantly, how about access to El Salto? Has there been a change in status around there?

By Jfoley
Nov 13, 2008

Limited access has been arranged through Mountain Skills Climbing Guides.This is a foot in the door for a tricky access situation. I have been working on this for over 5 years now. They are currently allowing limited guided trips with Mountain Skills only.

By Kurt Burt
Jun 27, 2009

Just spent a week out in the Taos area and had a blast. What a great variety of rock and style of climbs. Jay took me on a great tour of the area and enjoyed everything from Comales, to TP, the trad at El Rito (Jay was sick, good jerky huh Jay?) and the great Wild and Scenic. Climbing here was very surreal and I want to give an applause to all the guys doing great work developing the crags, and making it a great area to climb in. Jays book is pretty close to right on, I have never been to the area before and drove right to the El Rito trad area solo with no problems as well as finding routes and trails. Taos has a great local scene, great food, wonderful places to stay, and just a atmosphere that will inspire you to look around not just up or down.

By Jfoley
Jun 27, 2009

Thanks for coming out Kurt Burt.I had a blast. See you in Red rocks

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 18, 2009

The Taos-area article from last month's climbing magazine (plus perhaps some bonus material) is online at climbing.com. Good stuff Mike Howard, tim naylor, Jay Foley and others.