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DescriptionLocated in the Monongahela National Forest, Seneca Rocks is best known for multi-pitch trad climbs and stiff old-school ratings. The rock is formed from white Tuscarora quartzite, which feels much like sandstone. Bring your helmet since some of the rock can be loose at times. Many moderate routes exist on Senca Rocks, and the wildly exposed summit pinnacle can be obtained by several 5.2-5.5 routes. This makes Seneca a popular destination for trad climbing on the East coast. Getting ThereSeneca Rocks is located at the intersection of Route 33 and 55, east of Elkins, WV. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Seneca Rocks:
Gunsight to South Peak 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet South Peak - West Face
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet South Peak - West Face
Ecstasy Junior 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet South End
Candy Corner 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet South End
Traffic Jam 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Peak - West Face
Pleasant Overhangs 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches South Peak - West Face
Soler 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Green Wall 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches South Peak - West Face
West Pole 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet South Peak - West Face
Lichen or Leave It 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet North Peak, East Face
Triple S 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet South Peak - West Face
Back to the Front 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet South Peak - West Face
Climbin' Punishment 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet Southern Pillar
High Test 5.9+ Trad, 120 feet South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet South Peak - West Face
Pollux 5.10a Trad, 45 feet South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Castor 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet South Peak - West Face
Orangeaid 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway
Featured Route For Seneca Rocks
Climbin' Punishment 5.9 WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar
Superb and well-protected route. Usually done in three pitches but, with a 60m rope, can be done in one long pitch, if you don't mind long slings for pro and tough communication with the belayer. First two pitches make for an excellent 5.8.P1: Start in a left-facing corner just to the left of Roy Gap Chimney. Go up 40 feet (5.7) and step left onto the ledge under a crack in the corner.P1 variation: Start in a left facing corner 10 feet left of th...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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