Quartz Mountain Rock Climbing
On the NW side not sure what climb it is but an ob...
Also known as Baldy Point. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity.
From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.
Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2010 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY
Quote from Mark Herndon
"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."
taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson
The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible." Read the full story here at the WMCC site
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
102 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Quartz Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Quartz Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Quartz Mountain:
Featured Route For Quartz Mountain
S-Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Quartz Mountain
: Snakes Head / S Wall
This is one of the best face climbs around. Climbs up the middle of the wall right and below the Snakes Head. Climbing up 60 feet of 5.6 to the first bolt, then up to the mid anchor right in the middle of the signature Ess formation. Then step out and above the Ess (crux) and up, clip another bolt and work the run out 5.8 moves to the top. You can also link both pitches into one long one....[more] Browse More Classics in OK
View from the parking lot - note the Snake's Head ...
Matt King on Moose head Photo: Ryan Ray
View from the parking lot during the Fall Gatherin...
By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Oct 30, 2013
I love how the stats for this wall make it seem pretty chill. It's like, "Oh yeah most the routs are a moderate grade and almost half of them are bolted!" Wrong. Read the discription, this little mountain will test the nerves of even the boldest climbers. Yet, this is why we love it :). My point: If you are planning a trip to quartz, do your research first and be prepared.