Mt. Charleston

John Heinman on Animal Attack: 5.13b, the Compton ...

Description 

This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.

Note: The majority of the information I've posted on Mt. Charleston came directly from the guidebook Islands In The Sky, and proper credit should be given to its authors; Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan.

Getting There 

Mt. Charleston is located forty minutes north of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Rd. (157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via the Deer Creek Hwy (158).

The Classics

Featured Route For Mt. Charleston

Vegas Hose Monster WI5  NV : Mt. Charleston : Mount Charleston Ice

Three-pitch frozen popsicle located south of Cathedral peak. Approach as per South Loop trail, taking creek bed to the base. Third pitch is the best, the ice does not always touch down.Check conditions from second pullout on Deer Creek Road (the one under Mom's Cave) using binos or spotting scope. Also visible from gravel turnout on right 3/4 mile before fire station, drive slow and keep your eyes peeled....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Mt. Charleston Slideshow

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Mt. Charleston Looking down onto Highway 158@SEMI...	Distant Mt.Charleston framed by a joshua tree in b...	BETA PHOTO: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall
Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra. ...	The Count Becomes Difficult 5.8. Climber: Marc R...	Sweet step across to the rib on The Count Becomes ...
the summit