The Dungeon

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006 Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins, LeeAB Elevation: 6,219 feet Latitude: 35.8675  Longitude: -106.357 Aerial photo/map Views: 21,844 page views Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event   Printer Friendly View

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A busy night at the Dungeon main wall. Allison (wi...

Description 

Home to primo, rhyolite sport climbing. Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.

In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.

Getting There 

Drive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Road). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Drive (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Drive, soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through (yet). Follow the road left, then back right (this section is known to locals as "The Big Intestine"). Once through the guard station, continue up West Jemez for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Road, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).

Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).

• Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Drive, immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Road - this is before you cross the bridge. Follow West Road down into the canyon, passing the ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Road, you will merge with West Jemez Road, but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.

Other Resources 

For resources check out the "Jemez Rock" guide by Marc Beverly, or Jackson's "Rock Climbing: New Mexico".

The Classics

Featured Route For The Dungeon

(04) Beastmaster 5.12c/d  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : 45° Boulder

Powerful overhung climbing on good holds to a powerful 4th clip, a long draw is nice. Then a well defined crux to a rest, to some thin technical, difficult when pumped climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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