Accident Eldorado Canyon
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Climber caught after 100-foot fall |
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At first, I read it as a leader fall; not a seconding fall. The verbiage didn't seem correct?? (because of the indication that the fallen climber had gotten "off route" indicated a leader fall to me) |
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While walking down from Sunset Boulevard to Hair City we saw the ropes and draws left on the wall above the Whale's Tail. It looked to us like a leader fall had been taken from the last bolt on Pilgrim. But if a 100 foot fall was the result, that would indicate some pretty serious belay failure. Ouch! The hot sun probably made the crux moves feel like 5.12. |
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I talked to the first responder who gathered that it was a lead belay failure probably due to inexperience. He didn't know for sure. |
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Regarding the fall and rescue in Eldorado Canyon on the morning of July 13, I was leading P1 of Werk Supp at the time, so my view was from above and after the fact. However, one of my two partners (not the one belaying me!) was one of the first people to reach the fallen climber. She later related to me that it apparently was a leader fall of about 100 feet, that the belayer had lost control of the rope, and that the fall was finally arrested with the leader about six feet from grounding because the belayer was tied into the opposite end of the rope. |
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Pure speculation on my part, but If the leader was belaying up the second and the second fell (while the leader had his hand off the rope), the second could fall almost back to the ground while the leader was trying to get control of the rope... |
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some more info that i observed about 30 minutes after the accident: |
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From the information I have heard and read here, this did appear to be a leader fall and the cause of the accident seems to be belayer error. I hate to see any accident but I'm glad this climber did not suffer more severe injuries. This accident is a good time to remember some safety lessons that we would do well to pay attention to: |
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Another thing to think about: with sleek new skinny ropes gaining popularity, many of the "standard" belay devices tend to slip, or are harder to control (or are even ineffective in stopping a fall). Make sure your belay device is matched to the diameter rope you are using! |
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Although it takes a little getting used too, the gri-gri is one of the greatest devices ever made. It is almost idiot proof. In this case I would almost bet that the guy who fell would have been willing to purchase a box full of them instead of taking that fall. |
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"Although it takes a little getting used too, the gri-gri is one of the greatest devices ever made" |
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any theories on why there were 2 ropes tied together with the knot about 20 or 30 feet from the last piece of pro? seems improbable the second passed a knot with 3rd degree burns. were they top roping with 2 ropes off the last piece? |
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My best guess is that the rescuers had the belayer climb up a little so they could lower the fallen climber down 10 feet to the ledge and untie him. Then they would have tied a second rope to the one they untied the injured climber from. Then they would have lowered the belayer down from the upper ledge belaying from the second rope. When the belayer reached the ground, the knot joining the two ropes would have ended up 20 to 30 feet below the highest clipped pro. In order to lower the belayer safely, the rope would have to pass through at least two pieces of pro above the upper belay ledge, preferably through at least one locking biner clipped into the belayer's former anchor. |
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Two things I have seen within the comments: |
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Charlie Perry wrote:Although it takes a little getting used too, the gri-gri is one of the greatest devices ever made. It is almost idiot proof. In this case I would almost bet that the guy who fell would have been willing to purchase a box full of them instead of taking that fall.I've been dropped twice in my two-decade climbing career Once when someone took me off belay, once with a grigri. Seems my partner freaked out and squeezed it. I think the most dangerous belayers around are those gri-gri trained and using something else at the time. Gri-gri habits are fatal with other devices. Lastly, it's been a long running joke between me and my partners. I was roping up at the base of Notchtop for a long route and looked down, only to find 1/2 of a gri-gri, which had obviously been dropped. "I thought these things were idiot proof!?!?!" I exclaimed. You get the idea. There's no substitute for climbing as if you are soloing with a new partner until you are sure you aren't. I typically climb within my solo range or follow my first few climbs with anybody. |
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I do think a Gri Gri has a place in multipitch climbing- Especially in a place like Eldo with loose rock- Think about how often the leader is climbing above the belayer with rock fall potential. The Gri Gri will lock up if the belayer were injured and the leader pitched. As stated already the problem is almost always human not gear related. |
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I'm not sure if belay gloves would have stopped the fall in this situation, but they would have minimized the injuries to the belayer's hands. |
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Several years ago a climbing partner that doesn't use anything but the Gri-Gri for safety purposes almost dropped me 40Ft. I say almost, because with the rope stretch I almost did hit the ground and when I looked over at him his comment was "I thought you were leading." The big mistake was he always holds the cam open when he is belaying a leader. The other problem was communication because of the noise of the water in the creek and not paying attention. The only problem with this person is that he still belays partners the same way by holding the cam open with one hand. It was a good lesson for everyone that was witnessed it and I take some responsibility for what happed, because I should have never sat back in my harness until I knew for sure my partner was aware that I had threaded the anchors and was ready for lowering...The Gri-Gri is a great device, but it is only good as the person using it! |
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Tony Bubb wrote: I think the most dangerous belayers around are those gri-gri trained and using something else at the time. Gri-gri habits are fatal with other devices. ... There's no substitute for climbing as if you are soloing with a new partner until you are sure you aren't. I typically climb within my solo range or follow my first few climbs with anybody.Tony, I somewhat understand your comments. But, if someone has been trained to use a gri-gri; then, they should be safely competent in it's operation. Whereas, I think you are meaning that a person isn't using a sound belay technique and just relying on a gri-gri without any understanding of what a belay is because someone else set them up with it on-the-fly?? By a "gri-gri habit", are you talking about patterned belay behaviors that a person would carry over from a belay using a gri-gri to a situation where they would then be belaying a lead climber with a conventional device, like an ATC, tube, etc; thereby, putting the lead climber in danger? If so, what are you seeing as habits that could be putting a climber in danger? (Second part of your comment I quoted) Instead of going out soloing with a questionable partner, why not get them dialed-in on what you want performed when on a lead-belay, or just basic seconding skills for that matter before committing to a route? It reads to me like you are willing to put a climbing partner at risk without their understanding of what kind of a situation they are being put into. |
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As for gri-gri habits? I mean that the subconscious mind is trainable and people develop 'initial reactions' that are almost reflexive. If someone's initial reaction is trained in such that they let go of the brake to pull rope out of the other end of the device when someone pulls for rope, or if they habitually let go with the brake hand, then regardless of their level of awareness or focus, they can 'react' in a way that is habitual and not conscious at all. Mark Nelson wrote:It reads to me like you are willing to put a climbing partner at risk without their understanding of what kind of a situation they are being put into.I don't understand that at all, so perhaps it is in reference to a misunderstanding of what I said. I don't literally solo with new partners unless I know that they are experienced soloists. I climb as if I am soloing when I climb with them- meaning as if they will not catch a fall. I act that way until I know that I am safe across time and circumstances. There is no added danger to them in this. I climb as if I am soling and belay as if they've never climbed before. But then again, what could possibly safer? It does not endanger my partners. Anyone who has ever climbed with me can attest that at first I climb as if I am guiding until I feel 'safe.' If anything, I've probably been overly safe on both of our behalf's. Luckily, most people are very cool about it - only one person has ever expressed insult at my conservatism. I guess what I am doing could be misinterpreted even though it is not personal. Even climbing with professional climbers and guides the first time, I check all the anchors and offered each that I set for his inspection when they come up to a station I've built. I watch them belay and also call for attention to ask if I am keeping them slack or tight enough on lead. Frankly, I am usually shocked at the nearly implicit trust people seem to give me on the 'first date.' Most first time partners have not checked my anchors or watched me belay at all. Maybe people are just afraid to give the appearance that they don't trust others and risk insult? Regardless, they largely didn't check me or were so subtle about it that I couldn't tell that they were even though I was watching to see if they would (in order to gauge how conservative they were). A few did check my knots and harness, but none really inspected my anchors or watched me belay. And I tie in and belay funny, with the rope fully wrapped on my brake-hand like an ice-climbing belay with a mitten. So you'd think people notice, but they don't seem to. |
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The first part of your response, I get what you are saying -- a patterned behavior that trends toward having the belayer take the brake hand off of the rope. |