Mountain Project: Climbing Wild Iris

Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 11, 2006
Elevation: 8,800 feet
Latitude: 42.5792 Longitude: -108.7180
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 36,183 page views

Add Area Add Photo Add Comment Add Event

Discussions available in the
Colorado & Rocky Mountain Region
Message Forum

Description

Wild Iris is one of the most beautiful sport climbing areas in the U.S. It's hard to beat a warm summer day spent climbing the white limestone pockets of Wild Iris. And to top it off, you'll belay comfortably beneath a peaceful canopy of aspen trees. Sublime.

The climbs are mostly short, and occasionally sharp, but the climbing and experience is more than enough to compensate for these minor drawbacks. There are plenty of routes from 5.9 on up to 5.13, so most climbers will find more than enough to stay busy.

Wild Iris is located at Limestone Mountain at an elevation of 9,000 feet. The climbing season begins when the snow melts (early June) and can last into Fall. The high altitude makes summer climbing pleasant, but be aware that the weather can change at any moment - wind and cold storms are common all summer. Many of the climbs face south, so also be prepared for warm temps! Remember this is Wyoming - land of the extremes!

A number of primitive spots are available for camping, and an outhouse is located just up from the main parking lot. Closest supplies are located in Lander.

The Lander Bar comes highly recommended for food and drink - it's a climbing tradition!

Getting There

Wild Iris is located 24 miles southwest of Lander on Highway 28. Turn off the highway on Limestone Road and head up the dirt road. Head right at the first intersection and that will take you to the main parking lot. If you cross over South Pass (when coming from Lander) you've gone too far!

Resources

Wild Iris Climbing - Good information about Lander climbing, including condition reports for Wild Iris

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wild Iris:

La Vaca Peligrosa 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch OK Corral : Right Side

Annie Git Yer Drill 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet OK Corral : Central

Red Rider 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet OK Corral : Central

Ryobi Ranger 5.10a/b Sport, 50 feet The Main Wall : Five Ten Wall

Take Your Hat Off 5.10b Sport, 60 feet The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry

Aces and Eights 5.10b Sport, 40 feet OK Corral : Central

Claim Jumper 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet OK Corral : Central

Red as a Blooming Rose 5.10c Sport, 40 feet OK Corral : Central

Gaucho 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Zorro Area

The Devil Wears Spurs 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall

Tribal War 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet OK Corral : Left Side

Winchester Pump 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet OK Corral : Central

Medicine Man 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Erratic

Hot Tamale Baby 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall

Zorro 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Zorro Area

Wind and Rattlesnakes 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall

Ruby Shooter 5.12a/b Sport, 75 feet The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall

Charro 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall

Cowboy Poetry 5.12b Sport, 80 feet The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry

Bobcat Logic 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Main Wall : Rodeo Wave

Featured Route For Wild Iris

Me on the sweet pockets of Gaucho. Audry belaying.

Gaucho 5.10d WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area

This is my favorite 5.10 route at Wild Iris. The route consists of big moves between large pockets on an overhanging wall. This pumpy route ends at a small ledge, with a difficult move to clip the anchor. Being tall helps... ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY

Comments on Wild Iris

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2007

Some bolts have been cut at Cowboy Poetry wall, but whoever cut them left the first bolt in place. I don't completely understand the intent of the bolt cutter, but I'm not a local. Sometimes the bolts really blend into the rock and are hard to see. This may be common sense, but make sure you can see the bolts and the anchors before starting any routes.

By India
Jun 28, 2008

There was a bear hanging out around the camp sites at Wild Iris this weekend. Please be aware, and extra careful with food, etc. in this area.

Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
	ADVANCED