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Joseph Crotty sets up for the now missing (i.e., as of 2013-02-17) inverted knife blade clip just off the deck at the lip of P1 pitch of Jules Verne. A new knife blade was placed with a park permit in a like for like replacement. The new pin would be seen just above the climber's right ankle.

Id# 105836532,  Dimensions: 2000 x 1500 - View full size 

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By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Note, the inverted knife blade above my right shin no longer exists. It was pulled while testing the placement 2013-02-17 by yours truly. It failed on a medium test pull with a hammer. It was a time bomb waiting to go off.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Are you serious, Joe!?! That's scary. I've clipped and trusted that for years. Is there any gear opportunities in its place?

By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Nothing reliable natural pro wise is available. A few inches above where the pin was you can place a #1 Camalot, but the rib of rock the outer lobes would set against is friable. Additionally, it's a shallow placement, and the rock undulates a bit making lobe engagement tricky. I always had trouble clipping the pin. The extra reach to place the cam may make it super desperate, and then it probably won't hold anyways.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Feb 19, 2013

Adam, I can see clipping that particular pin but "trusting" it???? You could tell by lookin' at it that it was probably crap. Of the times I have led that pitch, the only time I ever clipped it was the first time I led it. Every time after it seemed better to just climb on past it as fast as possible. As aside note, while it is good that this particular pin got pulled, this and "other" pins in Eldo are now being pulled by ACE members without any public input or permit from the state park. Peace, Steve Sangdahl, Eldorado Springs

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2013

Come on, Steve, aren't all pins in Eldo good?!? I've been working on that premise for years. Just kidding, of course. Maybe "trusted it" was the wrong term. To be fair, a lot of people put some kind of faith in it as they clipped it with no other gear between them and a groundfall.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2013

Consensus is a great thing, Steve. I'm all for it, although being able to dislodge a pin with arm-force warrants it be gone, imo. Your attitude about not clipping a bad pin is the smart one. Better to have the attitude that you are soloing and cannot fall, rather to have any faith whatsoever in that the pin might catch you. Thanks to Joe for removing it. Glad it's gone.

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Joseph Crotty sets up for the now missing (i.e., as of 2013-02-17) inverted knife blade clip just off the deck at the lip of P1 pitch of Jules Verne. A new knife blade was placed with a park permit in a like for like replacement. The new pin would be seen just above the climber's right ankle.

Submitted By: Joseph P. Crotty on Jun 26, 2006
On this route:
Jules Verne (5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R )